The background: Borough charcuterie Cannon & Cannon has been at the forefront of its self-styled ‘British cured meat revolution’ since 2010, championing, as it does, the best of ethically bred and reared artisan game, poultry and beef, as well as the usual pork cuts. As well as its charcuterie deli, it offers event catering and runs talks, workshops and tastings at Borough Market. After a successful December pop-up, the restaurant is now a permanent fixture, in the epicurean triangle that includes Hill Bakery, Theo’s Pizzeria, and the authentic chilli-powered Silk Road. Nape is a charcuterie, deli, restaurant and bottle shop that pushes the capital’s newest foodie destination up a level.
The space: Nape’s interior is in minimal, casual City style, with high ceilings and a small but uncrowded table space. It’s a calm oasis set back from the honking queues of buses outside the window.
The bar: The winelist is well-informed and diverse. Currently, there’s a 2010 Bolney Estate sparkling white and a 2015 Angelino Maule Masieri Bianco among its changing list of specials. Nape also champions a small selection of low-intervention natural wines. The current toast of these is the Belle Naturelle Gruner Veltliner, which has a smooth minerality and a pleasant, warm finish.
What to eat: Start with a gin and tonic, served in a generous tumbler with a twist of grapefruit – or if it’s too early, try a cold and crispy Hallets cider. Accompany this with a plate of Monmouthshire duck, pork and Sichuan pepper snacking sausage; creamy Nocellara del Belice olives; and crunchy smoked almonds, for a satisfying trio of textures. Go on to Delicate Cornish Lop nape (neck), arguably the finest cut of pig there is. Don’t miss the Dorset mutton, expertly combined with pickled walnuts. The bitter leaves and blood orange salad gives a juicy slap before the fiery Hackney nduja and London honey on fennel-seed toast hits the spot – you’ll definitely be asking for a takeaway of this. Additionally, you can’t go wrong with the mixed meat platter of the day, which brings you a premium selection of seasonal cuts. Finish with Saint Eadburgha cheese, pear and crackers, washed down with a glass of Fino.
The bill: Plates range from £2.50 to £8, so allow £45 per head for a full meal with drinks before service – plus whatever you might choose to bring home from the very reasonably-priced deli counter.
In summary: A welcome development in a fast-growing foodie haven.
Nape by Cannon & Cannon, 21 Camberwell Church Street, London SE5 8TR; napelondon.com
Brummell review policy: Brummell accepts selected invitations to try restaurants. However, no guarantee is given that a review will appear. We only publish reviews of restaurants that, overall, meet the high standards of Brummell readers. Brummell will then recommend specific dishes and drinks that are outstanding.