The background: Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester barely needs introduction. The three-Michelin-starred restaurant has been dominating London’s restaurant scene for the past 10 years, and is celebrating its anniversary with aplomb. Current executive chef Jean-Philippe Blondet first joined the restaurant as sous chef in 2013 before being appointed to lead the Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester in January 2016. Blondet has only enhanced the restaurant’s reputation during that time with his take on Ducasse’s world-changing cuisine. For its anniversary Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester will be serving a special menu but ahead of the big event, Brummell went to see if the restaurant is still at the top of its game.

The space: Designed by Jouin Manku, the team behind Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée and Le Jules Verne at the Eiffel Tower, the restaurant is framed by enormous windows providing a welcome vista of neighbouring Hyde Park. The essence of the outdoors is continued inside with its softly lit muted colour scheme and reference to nature – notably the beautiful filigree leaf and ivy-inspired light shade and use of natural woods and leathers. The centrepiece of the room is the Table Lumiere, a private dining area separated from the main restaurant by a shimmering fibre-optic curtain. You will want to peek in and see who’s dining in there and also book again to make sure your party is the one enjoying themselves inside.

The menu and wine: When Brummell visits, we try the tasting menu – one vegetarian and one omnivorous – along with wine pairing, kicking off with a glass of Selection Alain Ducasse, the chef’s own delicious Champagne produced with Lanson, alongside a basket of light, fluffy, moreish gougères – French choux puffs with gruyere.

Then the first dishes arrive: the vegetarian menu with a refreshingly sharp and fragrant cucumber with juniper and an irresistibly light Dorset crab with celeriac and caviar on the other menu. Quinoa paired with seasonal vegetables follow, and the name of the dish does little to describe the umami delight this is, while seared duck foie gras with grapes and rye condiment render the meat eaters of the party dumbstruck in admiration.

Next is a tantalising pumpkin velouté with ricotta gnocchi and hazelnuts and a dish of halibut with oyster and seaweed, each beautifully presented and leaving both parties jealous of each other’s dish. To follow from the vegetarian menu is a new dish – wild mushrooms with black garlic and tender herbs in a light, clear broth accompanied by a mushroom-covered pastry: a triumph of rich and subtle flavours working together. For meat eaters, tender and subtle native lobster is served with celery and homardine sauce to mouth-watering effect.

The penultimate course is an unusual but thoroughly enjoyable combination of venere rice with confit fennel and citrus, or a succulent duck breast with turnip and orange – both satisfying and delectable.

Though now completely full, one doesn’t turn down dessert at an Alain Ducasse restaurant, especially when his signature Rum Baba is being served – incomprehensibly light and fluffy, superbly alcoholic and utterly irresistible. Along with Rum Baba we are treated to an elevated version of an Eton mess with airy, melt-on-the-tongue meringues, and a delicious and delicate pear concoction. The restaurant also ensures no one goes home empty handed. A goody bag of nougat, salted caramels and other sweet treats along with a perfectly dainty pistachio cake is handed to us to take home.

Throughout the meal each dish is paired with a delectable wine from the restaurant’s generous offering and the result is devastatingly wonderful. And it’s not just the sommelier demonstrating Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester’s dedication to employing the finest waiters and waitresses – at each stage the attentive service provides the perfectly relaxing background to an outstanding restaurant experience.

The bill: The seasonal tasting menu is £140 per person with an additional £95 for wine pairing.

In summary: Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester doesn’t just meet its starry reputation, it comfortably surpasses it.

Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester 53 Park Lane London, W1K 1QA, alainducasse-dorchester.com

To celebrate Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester’s 10^th anniversary, the restaurant is launching a special anniversary menu including dishes such as hand-dived sea scallop with citrus and caviar, native lobster with ratte potatoes and wild mushroom, and volaille de bresse with albufera sauce. The menu will launch with an exclusive evening, in the presence of Alain Ducasse, on Tuesday 24 October at 7.00pm, priced at £430 pp, including a Dom Pérignon Champagne pairing for one night only. From the 25 October until the 23 December, the 10^th Anniversary Menu will be available for both lunch and dinner, priced at £280 pp (including taxes, excl. service charge).