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    Livyora Mustekala Ear Cuffs

    Mustekala ear cuffs from Livyora are inspired by the myth of the Kraken

    Style — 10 December 2014

    Golden globe:
    The craft of Livyora

    Livyora draws inspiration from all over the world, from both the past and the present. A truly global company, its fine designs are as likely to be inspired by a European myth, an American icon or an Eastern potentate, but its roots lie in the traditional jewellery-making community of India.

    Designed by the three founders, pieces are made by the company’s team of craftsmen based in Mumbai’s Zaveri Bazaar, the equivalent of London’s Hatton Garden. These are third-generation jewellery-makers, who are able to combine traditional artistry with demanding modern techniques, as illustrated by the new Vita collection’s Pavoni earrings, an intricate pattern of sapphires, topaz, iolites, tsavorite and quartz that together form a dazzling peacock feather.

    The process is overseen by co-founder and former India head of Gemology Headquarters International, Tarudeep Vaid, whose long-established relationships both with the craftsmen and the gem-supplying trade gives her privileged access to the finest diamonds and Rajasthani coloured stones. This is vital to a brand that places great emphasis on sustainability and prides itself on being able to supply a design for years to come.

    Within the design process, each founder takes a different perspective. Both Dr Shefaly Yogendra and Chirdeep Singh Chhabra add a technical facet. ‘I’m a tinkerer,’ Shefaly says. ‘I’ll look at a piece of jewellery and say, “You realise we’re going to wear this for seven hours - how can we make it more comfortable?”’ This has resulted in some elegant solutions, as in the case of the Mustekala and Hachi earrings in the current collection. These beautiful creations in gold and diamonds, modelled on the tentacles of an octopus and a honeycomb respectively, are large pieces that spread over the earlobe, potentially placing significant pressure on the stem. The issue was solved by adding an ingenious clip to the back of the piece in order to spread the load, ensuring both comfort and security.

    This attention to detail is also found in the sourcing of materials, both in terms of the brand’s strict ethics and demand for quality. Both Vaid and Yogendra are nickel-intolerant, so the company mixes its own gold, substituting palladium as the hardener. ‘It makes our input cost a little higher, but I think if someone is buying something so wonderfully made, we owe it to them,’ comments Yogendra.

    Top picture shows Mustekala ear cuffs from Livyora, inspired by the myth of the Kraken.