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    This season's watches

    From left: Speedmaster 57, OMEGA; Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar, IWC; Classic Fusion Ultra-Thin Skeleton, HUBLOT; WWI Regulator, BELL & ROSS; Rm 025, RICHARD MILLE; U-2 blue, BREMONT. Selection of silk and wool/silk mix handkerchiefs, from £19.95, HARRODS, ANDERSON & SHEPPARD and PENROSE LONDON

    Watches — 10 October 2013

    New Faces:
    The Season's Latest Watches

    The latest watches to go on sale this season reveal new looks for their brands

    Photography: Andy Barter

    Words: Simon de Burton

    Omega

    Omega Speedmaster 57 

    Launched in 1957, the Speedmaster chronograph landed in the history books in 1969 when Buzz Aldrin made it the ‘first and only watch to be worn on the moon’ during his Apollo XI lunar excursion. Since then, the famous ‘Speedy’ has been made in many configurations. One of the newest is the 57, loosely inspired by the original hand-wound model. This version benefits from the latest super-accurate co-axial movement and a new sub-dial arrangement in which the 12-hour and 60-minute counters are combined. Steel, yellow gold, red gold, titanium or steel and gold cases are available.

    From £5,620 (steel); omegawatches.com

    IWC

    IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar

    One of a range of nine new Ingenieur watches created to celebrate IWC’s partnership with the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One team, the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month is a truly impressive piece of engineering that uses the brand’s first F1 grade titanium aluminide case. Inside you’ll find an in-house 89802 perpetualcalendar movement that will not need adjusting until 2100 (assuming the watch is kept running). Five discs make up the digital date display and leap-year indicator, and the flyback chronograph function runs the hour and minute totaliser at 12 o’clock.

    £34,900; iwc.com

    Hublot

    Hublot Classic Fusion Ultra-Thin Skeleton

    Having created cult watches with its vast and ostentatious ‘Big Bang’ models, Hublot now revisits its more classical roots with this relatively modest, 42mm-diameter dress watch, which features an uncharacteristically slim case housing a manualwound movement measuring just 2.9mm thick. To further demonstrate the brand’s horological mastery, the movement is skeletonised and fully exposed. The watch is available in titanium, as shown, or in Hublot’s patented ‘King Gold’, a hardwearing mix of 18ct gold and ceramic. Each is available with a leather strap or matching bracelet.

    £11,400; hublot.com

    Bell & Ross

    Bell & Ross WWI Regulator

    Bell & Ross aimed for a classic, military look with this beautifully elegant regulator, which captures a bygone era with its domed crystal, slim wire lugs, silvered dial and blued steel hands. The term ‘regulator’ was originally used to describe highly legible and accurate clocks and pocket watches with a centrally mounted hand to indicate minutes and a smaller sub dial to display hours. Naming this watch after World War I is connected to the upcoming centenary of the start of the war; the first wristwatch with a regulator dial didn’t appear until 1983. Just 99 pink-gold examples will be made.

    £14,000; bellross.com

    Richard Mille

    Richard Mille RM 025

    Maverick watchmaker Richard Mille likes to fly in the face of convention by incorporating complications traditionally considered suitable only for dress watches into his ultra-durable sports models. For example, he created a tourbillon for Rafael Nadal to wear on the tennis court. While most of Mille’s watches have a distinctive cushion case shape, the RM 025 is equipped with a vast, 50.7mm diameter, 20mm thick red gold one containing a tourbillon and chronograph movement with power reserve, torque and winding indicators. Oh, and it’s also a dive watch designed to work to 300m.

    £475,500; richardmille.com

    Bremont

    Bremont U-2 Blue

    As the name suggests, Bremont’s U-2 Blue is a blue-dialled version of the original U-2 chronometer first created in 2010 at the behest of members of the US Air Force’s 9th Reconnaissance Wing, based at Beale, California, who pilot the celebrated U-2 spy planes introduced during the Fifties. Based on Bremont’s ultra-shock-resistant ‘M-B’ watches – designed in conjunction with Buckinghamshirebased aircraft ejection seat-maker Martin-Baker – the ‘Blue’ differs in having a transparent case back and an anodised blue case band to complement the distinctive colouring of the dial.

    £3,595; bremont.com