The background 

Situated just around the corner from Jermyn Street (where calling on the statue of our favourite dandy, Beau Brummell, is always a must), Maison François is as unerring as the stalwarts of craftsmanship, such as Lock & Co, it calls its neighbours. Founded in 2020 by restaurateurs François O’Neill and Ed Wyand, alongside executive chef, Matthew Ryle, it is a nod to all those Parisienne brasseries that hum with sparkling conversation enjoyed over fine food. 

The space 

The restaurant interiors mirror the menu – simple, elegant and just a little bit special. A cavernous concrete ceiling oversees chic wooden booths softened with oatmeal linen seating, while mid-century opal pendant lights cast a flattering glow. It’s a brassie swept with a modern filter, and the afternoon tea is no different. Dainty cakes are juxtaposed with a sturdy burnished metal stand – there’s no danger of anything too saccharine here!  

Be sure to head down the sweeping staircase to Frank’s, the sleek subterranean wine bar, for a post-dinner drink if there in the evening.  

The menu 

Since June, afternoon tea enthusiasts have been able to enjoy a new traditional offering with a French spin. So first – champagne. Appetites are whet with a glass of Laurent-Perrier – there is a selection to choose from. Or try a glass of Copenhagen sparkling tea (0%) for a booze-free fizz option.  

Next, exacting sandwiches arrive (crustless, of course, employing a variety of bread) with fillings such as oeufs mimosa and Jamon beurre. Coronation chicken is reimagined as vadouvan chicken – to delicious effect. A generous plate of five sandwiches, each one is soft and full of interesting flavour, though never overpowering.  

However, the tower of beautiful, sweet treats that arrives next now feels somewhat like a challenge. In place of scones, hand-braided babkas take pride of place on the bottom tier. Moist and buttery, inside there is marbled chocolate or hazelnut with vanilla. Homemade spreads are ready to dollop on top: strawberry jam, hazelnut spread and clotted cream.  

For the pâtisserie, the attention and care given to each shines through: an orange blossom and pistachio gateau is a perfectly formed explosion of joy, while a fresh and punchy strawberry roulé is exactly what you want for a finish. It’s safe to say executive pastry chef Jérémy Prakhin is not messing about – nothing feels superfluous.  

There is a varied selection of Postcard Teas to wash it all down with – tea is still key – and I opt for the soothing benefits of jasmine to balance things out. 

The bill 
From £65pp with a glass of champagne 

The verdict 

This is a spot to take your chicest friend or relative and discuss the latest gallery viewing over a tower of beautiful pâtiserrie – très bien. 

Available daily from 2.30pm to 5.30pm; 34 Duke Street, St James’s, London SW1Y 6DF; maisonfrancois.london