WORDS
Chris Madigan
The summer doesn’t quite seem to be going away, so Armit Wines decided that it should extend its August bank holiday special offer until 11 September. The wine merchant is offering three mixed cases that take a meandering journey through some of the interesting regions they source from, and take in some of the fascinating producers they represent as UK agents. The cases are skewed to summer pouring, with whites, rosés and some sparkling wine, but each case includes at least a couple of reds to accompany barbecued meat, or for the die-hard “toujours rouge” drinker.
Armit Wines shook up the UK wine industry when it was founded in the late 1980s, when the new wine merchant bypassed local agents and built long-term relationships directly with the producers. Italy was — and still is – an area of speciality and Armit was an early pioneer of the Super Tuscans (made with Bordeaux grapes, notably cabernet sauvignon, instead of native varietals such as sangiovese). Indeed, over 30 years on, Armit is still the UK agent for Tenuta San Guido and its legendary Sassicaia, as well as some of the best producers of traditional DOCG wines, such as Querciabella (Chianti Classico) and Bruno Giacosa (Barolo et al) and representatives of incredible winemaking in less famous regions.
That spirit of breaking new ground also spreads to its exclusive relationships with producers in France, Spain, the New World and even the UK. And some of these rarities are available as single bottles for the first time in the Bank Holiday mixed cases (with 10 per cent off if you order a dozen bottles)…
The Must-Haves case (£85.84 for 6x75cl, or £154.51 for 12x75cl) includes a Vermentino from the Ligurian (yes, Ligurian) Cantine Lunae, and one of the pioneering Galician wines that kicked off the Albariño craze, Lagar de Cervera. The rosés are expressions of the natural bounty of the South of France, one from the carbon-negative Château Maris, the other from the certified organic Domaine des Mapliers. The case is rounded off with a finely balanced pinot noir by former Young Burgundian Winemaker of the Year Jean Baptiste Jessiaume and a classic jammy, dark fruit-heavy Barbera d’Asti by Marina Marcarino of the biodynamic Punset winery.
Another Italian woman producing stunning biodynamic wines is Maddalena Pasqua. Her 2019 Drago Bianco Organic kicks off The Explorer case (£125.39 for 6x75cl or £225.70 for 12x75cl). The other white is a perfect seafood lunch accompaniment, a 2019 Chablis from Domaine de la Genillotte. Another lunchtime special is Domaine des Mapliers’ Abacus expression, which adds spice to its rosé recipe, with Sichuan pepper and fresh ginger notes, an exceptional structure and an impressive length.
Into the reds and there is an Italian gem to kick off… Michele Satta may not be as well-known as Tenuta San Guido, Ornellaia or Antinori, but he was equally important in establishing the Tuscan DOC of Bolgheri. The 2019 Michele Satta Bolgheri Rosso impeccably blends Super-Tuscan grapes (cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah) with traditional sangiovese. The five families of La Rioja Alta set the benchmark for aged tempranillo reds and the 2015 Viña Ardanza Reserva offers so many floral, fruity and earthy notes, you’ll be waxing lyrical into the night. Also from Spain (or Catalunya, depending on one’s leanings), is the 2019 Negre from Terroir Sense Fronteres, a Garnacha grown in the Montsant DO to create a light, ethereal red.
In The Collector case (£268.80 for 6x75cl or £483.84 for 12x75cl), things fizz up. Chardonnay specialist Champagne Pierre Gimonnet et Fils’s 2017 Fleuron 1er Cru is a Blanc de Blancs that could pass for an Extra Brut. It has creaminess, sure, but with vibrant lemon freshness. Leading the response for English sparkling wine is multi-medal-winning Digby… its Leander Pink NV Brut from Hampshire is 50 per cent pinot noir and has complex aromas of red stone fruits and flowers.
Another producer with absolute confidence in knowing which grapes work with its terroir is Bien Nacido in the under-appreciated Santa Maria Valley on the Central California Coast. It produces pinot noir, chardonnay and that’s it. The 2018 Chardonnay Bien Nacido comes from one of the old-vine blocks and is bursting with orchard blossom and herbs. Meanwhile, the Minervois and Château Maris is represented here with the incredible 2018 Maris Brama, made from grenache gris – it has citrus bright freshness but deeper structure and cassis and blackcurrant leaf notes you’d expect from a red.
Talking of reds, the highest-end case is completed with two classics: Tenuta San Guido’s Guidalberto (2020), little merlot sister of Sassicaia; and a beautifully handcrafted (100 per cent destemmed, but unfined and unfiltered) Burgundy, the 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Symphonie from Domaine Alain Burguet.
All three cases are available to order from Armit Wines – full tasting notes here… armitwines.co.uk