Hats off!

Lock & Co is the world’s oldest hat maker – and with both wedding and sporting seasons in full swing, who better to entrust with your formal sartorial wardrobe? Especially when it comes to that most eye-catching accessory: the top hat

Style 5 Jun 2023

Silk top hat, £6,000, available from Lock & Co

Silk top hat, £6,000, available from Lock & Co

It is said that the sight of the world’s first top hat caused such a commotion that the wearer – haberdasher John Hetherington – was promptly arrested, having caused several women to ‘faint at the unusual sight’.

The Huddersfield Chronicle reported the story in 1797, with the smartly dressed offender ‘appearing on the public highway wearing upon his head what he called a silk hat… a tall structure having a shiny lustre and calculated to frighten timid people’. Sadly, this story is unlikely to be true, but it sets the scene for that most eye-catching of menswear accessories, the top hat.

In truth, the top hat’s origins are a mystery. We do know that it came to prominence in the late 18th century and was, originally, worn by men of all social classes. Nicknamed the “beaver”, as the earliest versions were made from beaver fur, it became a mainstay of contemporary fashion during the Regency era, largely thanks to dandy Beau Brummell, who was an ardent fan.

It’s hard to fathom that Mr Brummell was a customer of Lock & Co, which remains one of the world’s most distinguished hatmakers. In fact, the brand has a number of impressive claims to fame. Established in 1676, Lock & Co is not only the world’s oldest hat shop (still operating from London’s prestigious St James’s Street) but it is also one of the oldest shops in London and one of the oldest family-owned businesses still in existence. Lock & Co has borne witness to some of the earliest trends in millinery and hat-making, and specialises in classic, timeless styles. These include authentic panama hats, pure herringbone baker boy caps and the iconic Coke hat (aka the bowler), which was commissioned in 1849 by politician Sir Edward Coke.

It is also the trusted address to pick up a shiny new top hat. Around the 1830s, beaver fur largely gave way to the more elegant black silk, which is still the most popular colour and material for top hats. In fact, the towering structure of the top hat has barely changed all these years later. It is typically made from black or grey silk mounted on a felt base with a high crown and narrow brim. Of course, they’re not as commonplace as they were in Beau Brummell’s day and have become symbolic of wealth and the aristocracy. But there are still occasions that call for the mighty top hat, and with wedding season in full swing and Royal Ascot mere weeks away, it’s time to dust off this timeless accessory.

Lock & Co stocks several top hat styles (including an Ascot-inspired model) and its silk top hat is described as the ‘pinnacle of a gentleman’s formal wardrobe’, made from rare Parisian silk befitting the hat’s aristocratic associations. Each “topper” is fully satin-lined with a leather inner headband for comfort. They can also be monogrammed with your initials and come with a keepsake storage box. The service is akin to having a bespoke suit made on Savile Row, with an in-store appointment involving a conformateur, a device which takes precise head measurements to ensure just the right fit.

If you choose Lock & Co for your wedding or Royal Ascot look, you’ll be in good company. Sir Winston Churchill chose a Lock & Co top hat for his 1908 nuptials, later returning to order his trademark Cambridge and Homburg hats. Lord Nelson, Oscar Wilde and Charlie Chaplin were also fans of the brand, and it has continued to stay relevant and ahead of the curve, introducing a women’s line, a new bridal range and contemporary styles made in collaboration with eminent designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Jimmy Choo. It has also appeared on the silver screen several times, most notably on the head of Bond villain Oddjob in 1964’s Goldfinger and also in Kingsman: The Secret Service (2014), when Samuel L Jackson’s character is seen leaving the St James’s Street store dressed to the nines and sporting – what else – a silk top hat.

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