WORDS
Holly Quayle
The background
Chef Vivek Singh is known for pioneering Indian food in London – he is the brains behind the Cinnamon Club, the book-lined Michelin-starred restaurant that has inhabited Old Westminster Library since 2001, and that can claim introducing Londoners to modern, high-end Indian cuisine as one of its accolades. A younger string to his restauranteur bow is Cinnamon Kitchen, another innovative dining experience that was one of the first to include live cooking over flames, now a feature in many restaurants around the city. The venue first fired up its indoor grill 15 years ago, and head chef Raju Ramachandran has created a 15-course birthday menu to celebrate the best hits over the years. There will also be a special supper club on 8 September, with renowned Hampshire winery Hattingley Valley taking care of the wine pairing, and exciting collaborations to keep the party going throughout this momentous year.
The space
Cinnamon Kitchen is set within Devonshire Square, an 18th-century East India Trading Company warehouse complex now transformed into an undercover oasis of bars and restaurants. Only a short walk from Liverpool Street, Cinnamon Kitchen is a large space that mixes historic and modern elements to create a relaxed and convivial atmosphere. The star of the interior is the open grill and kitchen along the back of the room, where diners can enjoy the theatre (and tempting aromas) of their food being prepared.
The menu
The birthday menu takes customers on a 15-year culinary journey, and each dish has been picked as an individual standout from different years. The creations draw from the history of classic dishes and ingredients throughout India. During our visit, our waiter offered us a wonderful explanation of how certain flavours and techniques have been reimagined on the menu. You will want to eat every dish, and portions are generous, so come hungry.
To start, a range of artfully arranged appetisers include dahi Bhalla chaat – an interesting mix of chilled lentil dumpling and tamarind chutney, topped with a scoop of yoghurt sorbet – and samosa smash, a bowl of punjabi spiced samosas, onion-chilli and house chutneys.
Next, a taste of the famous grill. A sizzling dish arrives, brimming with delicious skewers of chicken and prawns, along with wonderfully flavourful char-grilled pork ribs covered in a soya and chili glaze and masala cashew nuts, and grilled aubergine with tamarind chutney and a sesame peanut crumble topping.
Once you’ve made your way through the medley of grilled delights, out comes a round of more intricate dishes. The grilled cauliflower is crisped to perfection, and sits in a bed of spinach and nutmeg, a flavour match that is made for each other. We could eat this with every meal. For an Indian take on gnocchi, the kadhi pithod saag is made from chickpeas, and two rolled balls are artfully arranged in a yoghurt sauce, with fenugreek crumble. However, the absolute star for us was the ox cheek vindaloo, a hearty, comforting mix of melt-in-your-mouth meat with pickled vegetables and masala mash. Be sure to save space for this.
To finish the journey through the years, a ginger toffee pudding with cinnamon ice cream brings an evening of innovative and surprising dishes to a satisfying end.
The bill
The 15th Anniversary Thrill of the Grill Menu starts at £48 per person, or £55 per person for a glass of wine per course.
The verdict
Cinnamon Kitchen is a lively spot with an extensive menu, so you are sure to find something to suit all tastes. The anniversary feasting menu is a chance to really savour a range of dishes, so pick company you want to while away an evening with.
The 15-dish anniversary menu is available on Fri, Sat and Sunday until 27 August, 2023; cinnamon-kitchen.com
The Wine & Supper Club on 8 September is £95 per person, 6pm-9pm, and can be booked here.