The waistcoat has been a fixture in the wardrobe of the English gentleman since the days of Charles II, an emblem of stylish luxury and a colourful rebuttal of dowdy Puritanism. From Charles II to Charles III, its purpose and symbolism have waxed and waned – at times little more than a functional receptacle for a pocket watch, at others a surrogate corset, complete with whalebone stiffeners and stays for the fuller-figured man striving for the V shape.

Today, it has reverted to its original purpose, providing an opportunity for the stylish man to express his individuality within the confines of a formal suit. At the forefront of this return to luxury is Favourbrook, the company which has become almost synonymous with the garment since the release of the waistcoat-heavy Four Weddings and a Funeral in the early ’90s.

Favourbrook waistcoats are crafted from fabrics of premium quality and impeccable provenance, the vast majority of which are manufactured in British mills. Gabardine wool is a mainstay of the process, woven in Yorkshire with a prominent diagonal rib and smooth surface on the back, which helps it keep its shape exceptionally well while also being breathable. Favourbrook’s garments are in it for the long haul, owing to the durability of these fabrics.

The craftsmanship and quality control of Favourbrook’s pieces are inextricably linked thanks to the tailoring taking place in London. Here, the cut of the garment, perfected over decades, is applied with absolute precision.

‘One of the most important elements of a waistcoat’s cut is its length, since it must cover the waistband of the trousers,’ says Founder Oliver Spencer. ‘Furthermore, it’s vitally important to create a waistcoat that sits flush to the body. Poorly made waistcoats will often billow out at the back. We think that we’ve designed the best shawl-collar double-breasted waistcoat on the market. The elliptical sweep of the lapels, combined with their width, is as good as it gets.’

The finishing touches are also key. Mother-of-pearl or smoked-pearl buttons come as standard while the silk linings, pocket finishes and dazzling embroidery are exquisite in themselves but also call to mind the more exotic and ancient origins of the garment, which many believe was first manufactured and worn in Persia, modern-day Iran.

Over the years, the waistcoat has had a broad appeal. Musicians such as Status Quo’s Francis Rossi to Harry Styles have put their own spin on it, while film stars from Steve McQueen in The Thomas Crown Affair to John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever have enjoyed its flattering charms.

And in the field of formalwear, Favourbrook has led the way. When it comes to carrying it off, Spencer believes one man stands out in particular.

‘King Charles is a fine example of someone who appreciates timeless style, and who wears a waistcoat well. He has been wearing the same grey morning suit to Ascot for decades and always complements it with a beautiful shawl collar double-breasted waistcoat in a soft pastel tone.’

From one Charles II to Charles III, the waistcoat carries a timeless royal endorsement: plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose.

favourbrook.com