The background   

Taku didn’t merely arrive, but exploded onto the London dining scene in 2022, gaining a Michelin star within just four months of opening. However, delve deeper into the pedigree of this omakase sushi restaurant and the instant accolades become less surprising.  

Backed by restaurateurs Geoff and Lucas Leong, already behind successful ventures in Chinatown and beyond, for this new enterprise they enlisted the considerable expertise of executive chef Takuya (Taku) Watanabe. Starting his career in sushi in Sapporo, Japan, aged 19, he refined his skills before becoming chef-patron of Jin Paris, where he has held a Michelin star for 10 years.  

At Taku, his magic touch is brought to life with the help of head chef Long Ng. Having worked as Watanabe’s right-hand man for three years, his impressive résumé includes training as a fishmonger before working at two- and three-Michelin-star restaurants, giving him a deep understanding of dishes, from picking the ingredients to the final presentation.  

The space 

Taku is a counter-style restaurant with just 16 seats, and with this extremely personal service comes certain rules. The omakase menu – the literal meaning of which is “I’ll leave it up to the chef” – is a set offering of 20 or more courses, many of which are prepared on the spot in front of you. Because of this, there are two seating times in the evening and one for lunch – arrive on time or risk being locked out. Guests are asked to keep noise levels down, and while you can take photos you are asked to refrain from any videography, to preserve the technique of the chefs.  

However, despite these seemingly strict demands, the atmosphere is calm, relaxed and welcoming. The dining room is a Japanese minimalist, wood-panelled retreat away from the hustle and bustle of Albemarle Street. And while there is a delicate balance of not distracting the attention of the chefs, or indeed interrupting your own view of their incredible skills in action, the staff are more than happy to answer any questions you have about the dishes and describe with great passion every element.   

The food  

An omakase menu is carefully orchestrated, and Taku plays the perfect tune. Starters are fresh and vibrant in both flavour and appearance. Particularly showstopping was the delicate golden eye snapper, sourced from Spain and aged for 10 days, served with pickled white asparagus and a squeeze of sudachi for a citrussy lift. Meanwhile, a melody of mackerel served with three different tomato varieties paired with a Japanese vinaigrette set the tone for what was to come.   

The middle section of the meal is dedicated to sushi, from baby bream to squid and scallops. Both the rice and seafood are served at precise temperatures for optimal enjoyment, so fingers are encouraged for quick eating, and laborious food photography discouraged. The sweet courses drew heavily on French influences augmented with Japanese flavours, including a dish leaning on the classic combination of gariguette strawberries with basil and vanilla, underscored by a slightly sour Calpico espuma foam, inspired by the yoghurt-like drink popular in Japan.  

The bill  

Signature omakase is £300, prestige omakase is £400 and both are offered with an optional alcohol pairing for an additional £320.  

The verdict 

Taku offers a memorable and intimate Michelin-starred omakase experience, but with the Mayfair price to match. 

To book, visit takumayfair.com