The background

It’s no news among Londoners that Battersea is having a moment. Under the all-seeing eye of the revamped Power Station, SW8 has become a destination in its own right, and after a long afternoon window-shopping and stargazing at dreamy apartments, what you need is a really good meal. No, not the quick-fix chains that surround the shopping centre, but something more special – and importantly, worth leaving the City for.

Venture past the Dogs & Cats Home, follow the Overground tracks (allow for some getting-lost time, says the voice of experience) and you’ll eventually find Archway: a neighbourhood wine bar and restaurant conceived by longstanding catering company Spook. The restaurant spotlights Italian-ish fare alongside a selection of old and new-world wines. These are curated by Lorenzo Nigro, the young and talented head chef, who secured the restaurant a spot in the Michelin Guide only a few months after opening.

The space

This isn’t the dark and moody space that you might expect from a trendy spot under a railway track. Fresh and bright with soft candlelight after dark, its cloudy marble tables, mirror-lined walls and seaside-ish panelling greet you as a welcome surprise after a trepidatious walk down a desolate stretch of viaduct.

An intimate restaurant that has been given the illusion of more space thanks to an open bar and kitchen, Archway has a decidedly homey feel about it – perhaps because you almost feel as if you could pour yourself a glass of wine, or keep half an eye on a pan for the chef. This, along with the utterly charming waiting staff, poses Archway as the perfect place for intimate private gatherings or larger celebrations – let’s just say, any wedding breakfast with a menu this good bodes well for future marital bliss.

The food

Letting the seasons guide the changing offerings, Archway delivers considered dishes that put the focus on sustainability, with local produce and foraging at its heart. Recreating classic Italian dishes with modern flair, a lean menu presents four starters, four mains and four pasta dishes that can be taken as either starter or main – best served with a bottle from the curated list of interesting, high-quality wines.

Here, meat is the order of the day, and delicate rosettes of mortadella entwined with burrata atop a perfectly light flatbread made for a lip-smacking start, while crisp sheets of fried pasta offered the perfect vessel for scooping a pool of gorgonzola and capocollo di Martina Franca – a smoky cured ham from Puglia. Our carnivorous nature was satiated come the main, where al dente fettuccine was coated with a rich lamb ragú, and dotted jewels of broad beans gave just the right amount of summery freshness. Had we not also indulged in the summer truffle risotto (as decadent as you dream), our gluttonous eyes were unwavering from the jus-dressed onglet at the next table.

But it’s dessert that you’ll really want to save room for. An almost A4-size piece of tiramisù was deceptively light and moreish, and the gooseberry cream that filled the bomboloni – three almost full-sized doughnuts – cut through the sweetness to deliciously tart effect.

The bill

A three-course dinner and drinks for two is around £120.

The verdict

The beauty of Italian food is that it’s pretty hard to get wrong, but so often it’s a bit forgettable. That can’t be said for Archway. Straight to the point with seemingly effortless dishes (and generous portions), this could be the restaurant that finally puts Battersea on the culinary map.

Arch 65, Queens Circus, SW8 4NE; book here