Any ardent footie fan who found themselves on the terraces in the 1990s will be familiar with the sight of a certain compass logo on the side of many a supporter’s arm. That logo of course, is the insignia of Stone Island, which in recent years has gone from being the “terrace casual” uniform and subculture staple to a bona fide luxury label with the street cred to match.

If you needed evidence, its first runway show since the brand’s foundation in 1982 was staged this January in menswear epicentre Milan, while in May it dropped its first collab collection with Paris powerhouse Dior. It’s a timely set of moves as the lines between high fashion and sport continue to blur. ‘Stone Island was adopted by various subcultures who have made it their own and aren’t typically “capital F” fashion people,’ says Chris Amfo, fashion editor of leading sports style magazine Circle Zero Eight, who credits its association with football fans, rappers and hip-hop artists for its wide-ranging appeal.

But a large part of its cult status is down to the brand’s late founder, Massimo Osti – the visionary Italian designer who brought function and game-changing inventiveness to everyday, casual clothes. Osti was obsessed with developing new, innovative fabrics. The idea of a garment working for you – as opposed to just being for modesty or vanity – underscored his ethos. So much so, he was dubbed a “garment engineer”. It was Osti who first introduced silk-screen printing in the ’80s, which revolutionised T-shirt production. At the more alchemic end of the spectrum, he made Stone Island’s 1987 Ice jacket from a Japanese-made fabric that changed colour in sync with the temperature, like a kind of space-age Technicolor Dreamcoat.

Stone Island’s Ghost collection, first introduced in 2011 as its most high-end offering, is defined by monochromatic dressing – the wearing of a single shade. The brand calls it modern camouflage. But this isn’t like wearing all black to disappear. The line’s signature unicolour palette manages to make a statement without shouting about it.

Military garments have often infiltrated the civilian wardrobe due to their practical nous – and it is forces gear that provides the templates for the Ghost line – think well-cut, comfortable garments with a surfeit of utilitarian details. There’s a focus on premium fabrications, which are engineered and treated to ensure they’re fit for running the gauntlet of modern life. It’s soft luxury, without the preciousness. ‘The Ghost collection appeals to those who appreciate quality and expert craftsmanship. It’s got the practicality you get from gorpy outdoor clothing making it functional to wear in various settings; while still having that smart and empowering feeling you get from tailoring,’ explains Amfo.

For its new autumn/winter 2024 Ghost collection, wool is a star player, but it’s been blended with a touch of cashmere to augment the natural advantages of both fibres; wool has more heft, while cashmere brings its famed cloud- soft handle and enhanced thermo-regulation properties. The Melton wool coat, which has been cut from this fine fabric, is a standout piece that ticks all the right boxes for form and function. Its neutral ivory hue and multitude of pockets to stow your effects for a hands-free urban commute make it a cool-weather stalwart.

Another standout is the sheepskin jacket, which puts a modern spin on a retro classic, with its army-inspired khaki shade and practical hood. While this feature might seem out of place for a garment that usually wouldn’t leave the house on damp days, Stone Island has treated the outer shell of the jacket with an anti-drop agent to repel water, so you won’t need to fret about rogue showers wrecking your fine fleece.

Camouflage might be about blending in but in this kit you’ll be conspicuously stylish whether you’re on the way to work or, of course, enjoying a weekend match at the old ground.

stoneisland.com