WORDS
Benedict Browne
Founded in 1916, no maison embodies olfactory excellence more than luxury fragrance and beauty company Acqua di Parma. For more than a century, this business, which is instantly recognisable via its signature sunshine yellow hat boxes and revered for its design language and timeless aura, has changed the way we perceive luxury in all of its polysensorial ways. Its latest release, Luce di Rosa, is further testament.
The Acqua di Parma of today stands proudly on the enduring foundation of its iconic Colonia scent, which was conceived by the founder, Italian baron Carlo Magnani, shortly after he established the business in his locale of Parma. This perky fragrance set itself apart from the heavy, concentrated perfumes favoured at the time by Europe’s nobility. This is thanks to its invigorating blend of uplifting Sicilian citrus fruits – it’s bursting with lemon, sweet orange and Calabrian bergamot – and floral and herbal notes, such as crisp lavender, delicate Bulgarian rose and aromatic verbena. During the 1940s and ’50s, this pleasingly complex scent captivated Hollywood’s elite, offering stars of the silver screen a tantalising glimpse into the allure of Mediterranean life.
While Acqua di Parma has always set the standard for mastering the complex alchemy of crafting fragrance, the company is equally revered for its design language seen throughout the maison’s universe. ‘Consistency is achieved by adhering to our brand’s core aesthetic pillars: the iconic Acqua di Parma yellow, the Art Deco-inspired bottle, our signature hatboxes and elements that reflect our Italian heritage,’ says Paola Paganini, product development and innovation director. The trademark yellow is one of two crucial touchpoints that play a role in creating a cohesive brand identity. ‘It’s reflective of our signature citrus notes and captures the essence of Italian elegance and luminescence. It is a tribute to Parma, a city where nature and culture harmoniously blend, with historical buildings that reflect golden sunlight,’ she adds.
Of course, much can be said of Acqua di Parma’s affinity for Art Deco, distinguished by bold geometric patterns, opulent materials and sleek forms, and while it can be ostensibly decorative, it embraces modernist principles of functionality and simplicity, making it the perfect match for highlighting luxury in all its forms.
It’s for that reason that the Colonia is such an icon. Its vessel is slick and perfect; it has a cylindrical shape with a slightly narrower base, crafted from clear glass, which helps showcase the golden hue of the fragrance inside. The design is then accented by a simple black cap and an understated, hand-applied label with a nod to its founder’s nobility. ‘The Art Deco-inspired design has and continues to influence all our creations, ensuring a consistent and elegant aesthetic across our products. Maintaining these design codes is crucial, as they represent the heritage and enduring appeal of Acqua di Parma,’ adds Paganini.
Naturally, Acqua di Parma’s latest creation, Luce di Rosa, which sits within the Signatures of the Sun collection, is also housed within the Art Deco glass bottle. An almost-clear perfume with the suggestion of a warm hue, it’s a fragrance of contrasts with a fine blend of clashing woody, citrus and floral notes. ‘When the perfumer received the project from Acqua di Parma, she decided to create a mineral rose, gender-neutral scent with a lot of contrast,’ explains Paganini. It’s feather-light, but is punctuated by the sweetness of the Bulgarian rose at centre stage, closely supported with verdant geranium. Beneath this layer there’s ‘vetiver, guaiac wood, cedarwood and musk, which provide a grounding and lasting finish, ensuring the fragrance unfolds beautifully over time’. As its name suggests, it brings enduring lightness and a fresh take on fragrance.
Luce di Rosa EDP, from £250 (100ml); selfridges.com; acquadiparma.com