The background 

A curry has always felt like a bit of a naughty treat, but a far cry from the late-night, post-pint trip to Brick Lane, a visit to Trishna is an entirely more civilised affair. London’s destination for exquisite South Indian cuisine for over 15 years, the Marylebone restaurant showcases the southernmost states of India and the rich coastal cuisine that it’s renowned for.  

The space 

Though it’s located right in the heart of central London, the warmth and welcome of southeast India imbues the whole of the restaurant – soft lighting, homey wooden flooring and pared-back furnishings imagine a beachside shack that’s been dressed up in its Sunday best. Modern touches of mirror and marble speak to the contemporary feel of the dishes themselves, while deep blue crockery recalls the region’s affinity with the ocean. If you’re lucky enough to visit on a sun-drenched afternoon, indulge in the lunch and early evening menu on Trishna’s front terrace, where a small jungle of lush foliage – ​​arranged by local florist atelier Grandirosa – transports you to the tropics. If it wasn’t for the passing black cabs, we’d almost be convinced.

The food 

If your version of Indian food is a tikka masala, you’re in for quite the education. Here, executive chef Sajeev Nair shines a light on the underappreciated regional cuisine via a seasonally changing menu that celebrates authentic local ingredients, particularly seafood from the coastline and local spices. Reimagining cultural heritage through a wholly contemporary lens, the autumn offering is best experienced through the lunch and early evening menu, where three or four courses (each more delicious than the last) offer a journey from land to sea.  

A sensational flavour medley arrives with the aloo chat, where potatoes and chickpeas are doused in yoghurt and tamarind for a sweet and sour hit, and curry leaf-fried prawns and calamari are gifted a satisfying crunch that you’ll remember long after you leave. Standouts feature the baby aubergine vathagal (an incredibly moreish, sweet and spicy curry) alongside the shahi salmon tikka (perfectly charred fish in a herby yoghurt marinade that’s accompanied by a smoked yet fresh raw papaya and samphire chaat). Across the menu, the use of Telicherry pepper and green chilli nods to Kerala’s reputation as the spice garden of India, and features within dishes such as the unctuously rich, melt-in-the-mouth cashew and pepper chicken. But there’s no sense of blow-your-head-off spice here, just the delicate dance of flavour, where each individual dish somehow marries harmoniously on the plate. Served alongside basmati rice, chettinad potato roast, dal panchmel, crispy poppadoms, tart chutneys and butter-licked bread, this really is the feast that keeps on giving.  

An unignorable undercurrent of spice also peppers the cocktail menu, where subtle spicing is a masterclass in a balanced palate; the “peppercorn paloma” is given a punchy kick courtesy of pink peppercorn tequila, while the “gin & tea” is infused with tea leaves from the verdant hills of the Western Ghats – a key part of southeast Indian identity. Elsewhere on the drinks menu, an extensive selection of wines looks to both emerging regions and fine tipples from boutique producers all over the world. 

The bill 

The autumn menu is priced at £50 per person for three courses, or £55 per person for four courses, and is available Monday and Tuesday 5-6:15pm, Wednesday to Sunday 12-2:30pm and 5-6:15pm. Expect to pay around £35 for a couple of drinks each. 

The verdict 

Trishna is truly unlike anything we’ve experienced before. Eyes often lighting up with awestruck effect, its menu is a textural and flavourful assault on the senses in the best possible way. You’ll want to come hungry and with a sizable party for this one, because a taste of it all is far too tempting. 

15-17 Blandford Street, W1U 3DG; book here