The background

Owned by the Parisian restaurant powerhouse with a love for the Italian way of life, Big Mamma Group (also the name behind London’s Circolo Popolare and Carlotta, to name a few), Gloria peers out from a pavement garden of terracotta pots and ivy on a corner of Great Eastern Street, where an unassuming graffitied door acts as the gateway to 1950s Capri. The group’s original London site, it still draws a well-heeled queue down the street despite opening in 2019, and is the perfect escape for when the weather takes a dreary turn.

The space

Stepping inside (through a velvet curtain, of course), it’s easy to imagine you are in a sunny scene from vintage Italian cinema. Pinky hues and Carrara marble mix with mirrors, lush greenery and glamorous retro coastal stripes, creating an inviting-but-bold sense of occasion. Romantic linen café curtains block out the bustling street beyond.

Beautifully bright painted tableware makes it impossible not to feel cheery while waiting to savour a bowl of comfort food cooling on the mosaic-covered table. The plates are sturdy and colourful, ready for the inevitable clattering of cutlery as conversation flows. The restaurant spans two floors, and downstairs is a ’70s basement with mirrored ceiling, retro carpet and the promise of long nights.

The food

Gloria’s menu changes monthly, but covers Italian restaurant staples – pasta and pizza – all done really well. There are playful menu twists, such as Honey, I Truffled the Crocchetta (perfectly crispy croquettes filled with provola and truffle honey, and sprinkled with fresh truffle), while a classic bruschetta goes beyond the usual toppings, all on perfectly baked focaccia.

Pasta is prepared daily, and the mafaldine al tartufo with creamy truffle sauce, Parmigiano Reggiano foam and fresh black truffle is served from a pecorino wheel for extra flair. For something that goes easy on the carbs, the rib-eye 28-day aged tagliata arrives in flavourful slices on a bed of cavolo nero. To finish, it has to be the tiramisu, dished up from a family-sized pan with a classic touch of marsala wine.

There is also a thoughtful drinks list to complement the menu – including a Sardinian beer to really transport you to the beach. The cocktail list is short but perfectly formed. Recalling summer picnics, the Match Point Rossini features fresh strawberry purée with elderflower liqueur topped with bubbles, while the Lo Sgroppino is a taste of holiday in a glass. Homemade bergamot sorbet is combined with Italicus liqueur, limoncello and finished with champagne – cin cin.

The bill

Dinner and a cocktail for two, around £110.

The verdict

Gloria is a great place to escape with friends for a good catch up over a long lunch or dinner in a fun, glamorous setting.

bigmammagroup.com/en/trattorias/gloria