WORDS
Polly Rappaport
The festive season is almost upon us and whether you’re plotting some Christmas entertaining, considering bottles to bring along to a dinner party or in search of the ideal gift for your favourite drinks connoisseur (or simply in the mood for a little seasonal something to treat yourself while burning the midnight gift-wrapping oil), Fortnum & Mason’s 2024 selection has almost certainly got you covered. From sweet wines to spiced spirits, sparkling tea to hoppy ale, there’s a winter wonderland of tipples on offer…
FIZZ
Nothing gets a party started like a splash of suds and Fortnum’s Blanc de Blancs champagne (£45) is a perfectly elegant way to kick things off. Made from 100 per cent chardonnay, it offers dry, oyster shell minerality with a squeeze of citrus, very gentle tannins and a lightly biscuitty finish.
If champers isn’t your scene, Fortnum’s English Sparkling Vintage Wine (£55) from Wiston Estate in Sussex is truly just the thing. A blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier, this delicately fizzy white balances acidity and smooth creaminess with a touch of earthiness – and, to Brummell’s nose, an enticing whiff of strawberry jam and shortbread. All qualities that make it an excellent aperitif.
For those looking to raise a glass of bubbles while going easy on the booze, Fortnum’s Winter Sparkling Tea (£19.95) is a beautiful alternative to wine. It’s gently floral with a pleasant tannic edge thanks to oolong, darjeeling and jasmine, though the predominant notes are of warming chai spices and a hint of sweetness – it is redolent of spiced seasonal baked goods such as stollen. In true festive fashion, it does offer a playful 5% kick (’tis the season), but it’s an excellent option if you’re pacing yourself – or simply want to try something delicious and different. Unsurprisingly, this is already proving a huge hit among drinks shoppers at Fortnum’s.
WHITE
Getting down to the business of wines to accompany a festive spread, Saint-Véran (£23.95) is a crisp, juicy chardonnay from an organic producer in Burgundy. This is a smooth, refreshing wine that would match beautifully with seafood or white meat.
RED
Over on the red shelves, Marlborough Pinot Noir (£36.50) is an organic, medium-bodied red from New Zealand, aged in oak for silky-smooth tannins and a great balance of fresh fruit with light salinity.
For something slightly fuller-bodied, Douro Tinto (£20.95) is a round, elegant Portuguese red from Niepoort with dark, jammy berries on the palate thanks to the use of port grapes, and a long, velvety finish.
If it’s “oomph” you’re after, Fortnum’s Margaux (£42.50) is a third-growth bordeaux from Château Cantenac Brown brimming with red fruit, juicy plums and a touch of leather – a wonderfully intriguing wine which, as with the other two reds, would pair perfectly with rich red meat or nutty cheese.
SWEET
Even if sweet wine isn’t your go-to tipple, there is something genuinely exciting about sipping Fortnum’s Christmas Pudding Madeira (£18.50), which blends notes of toffee and candied nuts with fresh acidic yellow fruit and a dash of spice. A wonderful partner for pâté, stilton or an actual Christmas pud.
Another delightful surprise, the 2011 Vintage Port (£45) is far from the heavy, overly honeyed character one might expect from a port wine. It’s sweet and fruity with a refreshingly spicy intensity, and moreishly silky. This is apparently one of Niepoort’s best vintages in years – and we can believe it. Pair with peppery sausage meat or funky cheese and become an instant sweet-wine convert.
ALE
It would be distinctly unfestive to leave beer drinkers off Santa’s “nice list” – happily, Fortnum’s Christmas Ale (£3.50) packs seasonal flavours of roasted nut, caramel and citrus into a light, hoppy brew that pairs perfectly with salty party snacks and rich holiday fare. Plus it’s vegan and gluten-free to boot.
SPIRITS
Naturally the Christmas tidings continue over in the spirit realm, starting with Fortnum’s x Salcombe Gin Special Edition Cask Aged (£69.50), a limited-edition gin matured for over four years in a moscatel do douro barrel. The result is honeyed yet fresh, with seasonal notes of fruit and nuts.
Another seriously intriguing tipple, the new Toasted Panettone & Saffron Liqueur (£35) is nothing short of Christmas sunshine in a glass. True to its name, this luminous yellow liquid is gorgeously buttery, balanced with notes of citrus peel and spice.
Finally, for an extra special treat, Fortnum’s x Tamdhu Exclusive Single Sherry Cask (£295) is a limited-release Speyside single malt Scotch that oozes deep, sherried opulence. Rich and fruity with a creamy texture and wonderfully warming notes of festive spice, it’s just the dram to enjoy with a cheeseboard – and, thanks to its gilded scarlet case, a bottle of this rare beauty would make an ideal gift for the whisky head in your life.
Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, St James’s, London W1A 1ER; fortnumandmason.com