WORDS
Holly Quayle
Just off the bustle of Borough Market, a historic melting pot of fantastic produce and interesting flavours, French restaurant Camille threw open the linen café curtains in February of this year (in what was once the premium sandwich shop Sons + Daughters).
This is the latest gem from hospitality duo Clare Lattin and Tom Hill – the names behind Soho’s much-loved Ducksoup and Dalston’s Little Duck The Picklery, along with Emilia in Devon. The concept was partly inspired by the pages of celebrated French chef Pierre Koffmann’s Memories of Gascony cookbook and offers casual regional French dining with a blackboard menu that changes daily.
Lead by head chef Elliot Hashtroudi, who honed his craft in the kitchen through stints at Padella, Trullo and a few years at St John, as well as running his own successful pop-ups, the menu is driven by Hashtroudi’s passion for whole-carcass consumption and guided by seasonal British produce.
What can diners expect at Camille?
Camille is a regional French restaurant with a focus on offal and whole-carcass butchery. There’s a lot of bold flavours, old traditions and technique with a contemporary twist. We love to see people try something new and open their eyes to beautiful British produce.
How would you define your culinary philosophy and approach to cooking?
It’s a nose-to-tail approach led by seasons and farmers. It’s food that I’d want to eat and an extension of my personality. Let the ingredients speak for themselves and don’t put 1,000 things on one plate. Food ultimately should be led by your stomach, things you really want to indulge in and eat.
At Camille, you make sure no part of an animal or produce goes to waste. What is one misconception about cooking with all parts of an animal?
I think people often neglect some of the most cherished parts of the animal; there’s beauty in every element. From skin to bones to offal and blood, everything can be used. Some of my favourite dishes have a focus on trotters or pigs’ blood (with things like boudin noir). I think perhaps there’s misunderstanding of how to use every element or, rather, some fear. It’s so important from a sustainable perspective, but also an economical standpoint.
How else do you keep sustainability in mind at Camille?
We work exclusively with regenerative British farmers. We only really use British produce and only what’s in season. You should let your farmers and growers dictate your menus and eat the seasons. We take it as far as possible with being almost zero waste and using every element – from root to shoot with our veg and nose to tail with our meat or fish. We also use eco-friendly cleaning products across the restaurant – it may be a little difference but it’s a step in the right direction and something that will have a better impact when more restaurants follow suit. It’s so important for us to understand the importance of regenerative farming. Current standard farming can’t last forever and it’s time for change. There will be no farming industry in the future if we continue the way some are.
What is it about regional French foods that you connect with?
France is such a diverse country, not only in its culture and rich history but its landscape. There’s beauty in every corner: from the amazing coastal region of Normandy, to the mountains of Savoie, to the “garden of France” in Loire. Every region has its own approach and philosophy to food, there’s no country like it.
Which ingredient could you not live without and why?
Mustard. A good Dijon mustard is crucial to any decent recipe. It’s the unsung hero of the kitchen.
What do you enjoy most about being a chef?
What’s not to love? There are so many aspects of the job that I adore. Working as a team has to be the top for me. Seeing so many different minds and approaches come together to formulate this one fantastic plate. Every day is good fun and so unique, there’s truly no other profession quite like it.
What’s the best piece of career advice you’ve received?
Simple doesn’t always mean easy.
What’s your favourite country to visit for the food and why?
My heart lies with France, but I have an affinity for New York. There are so many incredible restaurants and there’s such a great feel to the city. The food scene, second to London, is the most exciting in the world. From restaurants like Wildair to The Four Horsemen to $1-a-slice pizza places, it’s a true unity of diverse cultures and backgrounds.
Who would be your dream dinner guest?
Have you ever seen me and Danny DeVito in the same room…
You were named “one to watch” in Code Hospitality’s 30 under 30 list – what’s next for Elliot Hashtroudi?
There’s a lot on the horizon, I’m only getting started. I’ve definitely got a book or two in me and would love to further educate people on offal and whole carcass. Some other bits and bobs, watch this space!