WORDS
Lucy Teasdale
Sintra is set among rolling green hills and breathtaking mountains and is just 30 minutes away from the colour and charm of Lisbon. This year the town celebrates 30 years as a Unesco World Heritage Site.
Once home to the Portuguese aristocracy, Sintra also attracted cultural luminaries of the 1800s, from Byron to Strauss, all who were captivated by its stunning Moorish architecture, romantic palaces and lush gardens.

In the verdant foothills of Sintra’s mountains, in the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park is the Ritz Carlton Penha Longa Resort. Originally established in the 14th century as a monastery, this idyllic retreat offers a stunning gateway to the area’s most notable destinations. The hotel sits beautifully within its environment – when we arrive, we are whisked to one of the recently renovated suites with sweeping views of the championship golf course, natural park and mountains of Sintra beyond.

Penha Longa Resort is home to not one but two Michelin-starred restaurants, a world-class spa and one of Europe’s best 27-hole golf courses, while offering a luxurious retreat after days spent taking in the surroundings. The jewel in the crown of the hotel is the outside pool, with breathtaking views of the natural park and an introduction to the ethos of wellness that continues into its spa.
Approached via a winding path through trees and gardens, Penha Longa’s spa has tranquil garden spaces with a secluded pool, private gazebos and even a labyrinth, inviting guests to get lost in the meditative power of nature. The spa’s bespoke treatments are a must-try, and can be tailored to your needs, from rejuvenating facials to heavenly full-body massage.
Leaving the hotel’s sumptuous food and relaxation behind for a day of exploring in fairytale Sintra, we head to the Monserrate Palace. Created by British industrialist Francis Cook in the 19th century, the gardens of Monserrate are home to species of trees and plants from all over the world and conjure a botanical wonderland surrounding the Romantic hilltop palace.

The palace’s combination of Gothic, Indian and Moorish architecture is shown through ornate decoration and foliage motifs that extend from within the palace to the stunning exterior and botanical gardens. Moving on to Sintra itself, we are treated to stunning views of the Pena Palace, just one of at least six castles and palaces in the World Heritage Site. On a clear day, the distinctive yellow and red facade of the national palace can be seen from Lisbon, and the invigorating, scenic hike from the centre of Sintra town is well worth the effort.
Back at Penha Longa, there are seven restaurants to enjoy, including Portugal’s first Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant, Midori. Here, alongside the classic sushi dishes, Japanese cuisine is given a touch of Portuguese soul with meals such as tako su and sweet potato from Aljezur and tuna caviar and potatoes in different textures. Mercatto, the hotel’s Italian-inspired all-day bistro, is perfect for leisurely lunches and family dinners, combining fresh local produce with handmade pastas, bread and decadent desserts.

A visit to the Portuguese Riviera wouldn’t be complete without a day trip to Cascais, just a short drive from the hotel along a spectacular coastal road. We take a break from the calm and luxury of the hotel to spend a glorious afternoon in the sunshine of this quintessentially Portuguese fishing town, where some of the most affluent Lisboans keep their boats.
Once the summer refuge of the Portuguese royal family, Cascais has a bustling marina, buzzing restaurant scene and beautiful gardens. A highlight of our trip is lunch at Marisco na Praça, an incredible fish restaurant in Cascais’s covered market, serving classic dishes such as feijoada – a moreish black-bean stew.
We follow this up with a stroll through the town to Gelateria Santini, the oldest Portuguese ice-cream parlour where ice-creams and sorbets are made using only fresh fruit. The tree-lined beaches of Cascais are a welcome sight, with spectacular views of the castles of Cascais and the Atlantic beyond.

After a day of adventuring with little ones in tow, the hotel is fantastic for families, with an incredible kids’ club and unique “In-Room Camping” experience* for smaller guests, as well as guided nature walks of the gardens and natural park. For a culture-soaked short break in the late spring or early summer, when it’s warm and still relatively quiet, a visit to this beautiful part of Portugal and Penha Longa is the perfect option.
Rooms start from £237 per night (€282) for two. To find out more or to book, visit ritzcarlton.com
*Prices for the In-Room Camping package start at €79 per stay or €26 per day for stays of up to 7 nights