Non-alcoholic spirits being such a new – but rapidly expanding – sector, it’s hard to know which brands are really good and which are simply jumping on the bandwagon. One pretty reliable guide is the Global Spirits Masters Awards organised by trade publication The Spirits Business. In its 2022 Low & No Alcohol awards, two of the three non-alcoholic white spirits that achieved Master status were Atopia expressions – Rhubarb and Ginger, and Hedgerow Berry.

Atopia is made by William Grant & Sons, known for its whiskies, including Glenfiddich and Balvenie, but more pertinently, for Hendrick’s Gin. Lesley Gracie, who conceived Hendrick’s, also oversees Atopia and the production method is similar to the one she uses for the alcoholic spirit. This means batch-distilling with botanicals in a copper pot still before infusing more delicate flavours afterwards (that’s how the rose and cucumber gets into Hendrick’s gin). Obviously, the difference is that the ethanol is diverted away to make Atopia.

Brummell has tasted the Hedgerow Berry variety and it has more oomph than most non-alcoholic spirits to have passed our lips. It’s bright and fruity on the nose, then fills the mouth impressively (some drinks of this type are too watery). It has the sharpness of pomegranate juice with a floral nature too – like a dry version of rosehip syrup (cue Proustian rush of childhood memories). And on the tail, there’s a peppery kick of spice. It makes a great non-alcoholic Bramble or simply a guilt-free alternative to gin and tonic.

Atopia Hedgerow Berry is available from Marks & Spencer; Atopia Rhubarb and Ginger is available from Waitrose; and both are available on Amazon. atopiaspirits.com