The background

The first Amazónico opened in Madrid in 2016, quickly becoming a place to be seen, and eight years on it now has outposts in London, Dubai and Monte Carlo. It is a part of The Paraguas Group, a collection of fine-dining restaurants run by husband-and-wife duo Sandro Silva – a Brazilian chef – and Marta Seco.

Amazónico London was the restaurateur couple’s first spot to open outside of Spain, and they chose the former Allied Irish Bank building overlooking Berkeley Square in which to take the leap. Taking inspiration from the Amazon River, which, as one of the longest rivers in the world, flows through or has tributaries in 10 South American countries, the idea here is to bring flavours of Latin America to diners, along with a taste of the convivial spirit of shared meals.

The space

Every detail of the 13,000sqft interior works to transport you to a glamorous jungle setting, but without feeling too “themed”. Designed by artist and interior designer Lázaro Rosa-Violan, the large main dining room is an experience in itself: low lighting, opulent, carved wood panels, statement ceiling lights, plush velvet banquettes and shimmering gold touches, punctuated by rainforest foliage “growing” from every corner – and even the ceiling in places. There’s a stage area where a great house band plays Latin-inspired jazz, bossa nova and Cuban music at just the right volume, bringing the energy up a notch. The tableware includes printed jungle creatures – a tree frog and leopard in our case ­– as well as a mix of patterned plates, heavy, rustic clay bowls and slabs of stone. The cocktails arrive in fun, vintage-inspired vessels – a giant ceramic peacock (the Peacock Spritz) and a monkey (the Monkey Business) help to bring the Amazon to our table while we enjoy the live singing.

The menu

There is a surprising range on the à la carte menu, from sushi and ceviche to arroz chaufa (Peruvian fried rice), and of course, an array of grilled meats. We’re here for the new Weekend Asado set menu. Asado is South America’s much more sophisticated answer to a barbecue. A variety of meats are slowly cooked over a fire or grill (often only fuelled by charcoal from specific species of trees), and perfecting the meat is an art. It’s a social event and friends and family gather together to catch up over a glass of red wine and enjoy the asador’s labour of love, usually accompanied by lashings of chimichurri sauce (a mix of fresh herbs, garlic, olive oil, vinegar and chilli) and fresh salads.

Brummell visited Amazónico on a Sunday lunchtime, and this is a version of a family roast we could get used to. Most of the dishes are for sharing and arrive a few at a time. Guacamole is prepared at the table, ready to be scooped onto crispy plantain, with puffy balls of pão de queijo (Brazilian cassava cheese bread) to balance out the flavours. A mango salad with citrus dressing is outstanding, working perfectly with some stone bass ceviche.

The main event though, is the platter of meats. Juicy, glistening Brazilian picanha (beef rump) is brought to the table still on the skewer. Ceremoniously sliced with a rather swashbuckling knife, the buttery, tender pieces join grilled lamb rump, coriander-marinated baby chicken and the crispiest pork belly for a true feast of flavours. Portions are generous, so be aware, there are also three desserts – of which the unexpected star is the roasted, glazed pineapple slices (you can watch these grilling as you arrive) served with corn cake and coconut sorbet. Refreshing, sweet and simple – a real tropical treat. There is an extensive wine list to accompany your meal, and the knowledgeable staff are more than happy to make recommendations.

The bill

The Weekend Asado menu is £65pp, with cocktails from £16

The verdict

Weekend lunch here feels like more of an occasion than your average establishment – perfect for a birthday, anniversary or simply injecting a dreary Sunday with some uplifting energy enjoyed with friends and family.

The Weekend Asado menu at Amazónico is available on Saturday and Sunday, 12-4pm; amazonicorestaurant.com