The background 

There aren’t many people that can be credited with the culinary renaissance of a nation, but the Roux name is certainly one that can be put against it. Shaping the landscape of British fine dining since Michel and Albert Roux opened Le Gavroche back in 1967, the family name has become the much-lauded benchmark of classic haute cuisine. But since the legendary restaurant’s closing earlier this year, Michel Roux Jr hasn’t been one to rest on his laurels, instead opening Chez Roux within The Langham’s Palm Court.

The space 

Icons know icons, and the nostalgic glamour of such a London institution like The Langham – opened in 1865 as Europe’s first “Grand Hotel” – certainly makes for a fitting setting for the retro-tinged menu. Though Roux has said that he’s no longer chasing Michelin stars, the twinkling metallic accents of the grand old dining room would artfully convince the subconscious otherwise. Softly lit and imbued with the perfect touch of chintz courtesy of plush pastel furnishings and hydrangea bouquets, pristine white tablecloths, an armoury of mirror-shine cutlery, and attentive-but-never-imposing service sets the tone for the immaculately curated dishes to come. Yet despite buttoned-up preconceptions, Chez Roux isn’t the sort of place that forces you to sit up straight and speak the Queen’s; the subtle tinkle of the ivories on the grand piano and a recline on the sweeping quilted sofa compels you to easily while away the hours. 

The menu 

Here, traditional French method meets British classics, with a menu inspired by Roux Jr’s childhood memories in rural Kent. Having been brought up on the grounds of the Cazalet family’s Fairlawne Estate, where his father was a private chef, Roux reinvents gastronomic icons of the 1960s with wholly contemporary flair. Open for dinner only – by day, Palm Court still serves its legendary afternoon tea (some say the birthplace of the tradition) – Chez Roux serves an after-dark feast including a rich yet perfectly piquant Welsh rarebit, lamb chops reform (inspired by French chef Alexis Soyer’s classic 1830s recipe) and an off-menu special of grilled lobster with garlic butter, fries and béarnaise. Disclaimer: menu does not contain gelatine-encased salads or cheese and pineapple sticks. 

For an edit of Roux’s favourites, opt for the tasting menu, where five courses (each as exquisite as the next) can be joined by considered wine pairings from both sides of the Channel. Our highlights? The perfectly flaking lemon sole meunière with capers and brown shrimp, followed by the rare Buccleuch beef fillet in a rich cognac and peppercorn sauce are such a taste sensation that you’ll lust over the full-size à la carte plate – though with five courses on the agenda, that might be a challenge for even the most ambitious of appetites. For a sweet finish after the cheese course interlude, Chez Roux masterfully elevates the humble rice pudding with jewels of crystallised pistachios and redcurrant coulis, served tableside for an old-school touch of theatre. To the international jet-setter taking up residence in the storied hotel, this is a lesson in the history of British cuisine – the version that we’d like to tell at least. ‘These glazed faggots are just like my grandmother’s,’ confused Anglophile tourists will overhear.

The bill 

The à la carte menu costs around £60 a head, plus drinks and service, while the five-course tasting menu is £80 per person, with a wine pairing option available for £140. 

The verdict 

Such lofty settings are deserving of an ineffably sophisticated menu, with classics from both home and away celebrated with just the right amount of nostalgia and irony. Chez Roux is certainly one to save for a special occasion. Perhaps treat your grandmother, and be sure to in no way insinuate that it’s better than her Sunday dinner.  

The Langham, 1C Portland Place, W1; book here