The background

Having only opened in October this year, Claro London is already being met with high praise by critics and hungry customers alike. And it’s no surprise given that it is born from the same team of long-time friends who founded one of the most sought-after eateries in Tel Aviv a decade ago. In the spirit of this, the London location (the brand’s first international restaurant) draws inspiration from its Middle Eastern roots, combining its influences with Mediterranean culture to produce a menu that satisfies even the pickiest of tastebuds.

The space

An airy and chic atmosphere, Claro is housed in a former banking hall that has been beautifully reimagined by the award-winning agency DesignLSM. High ceilings and large windows provide sweeping views of the prestigious streets of St James, opening the restaurant up to the twinkling cityscape beyond. Despite the vastness of the space, the atmosphere is still buzzing, largely thanks to the lively noise from the open kitchen and the utterly charming waiting staff keen to offer you their menu recommendations or top up your water glass at a moment’s notice. Claro also features two private rooms on the second level, each with its own lounge bar and bespoke setting, making it the perfect destination for more intimate events.

The food

The menu, designed for sharing and bursting with flavours inspired by Mediterranean and Middle Eastern influences, is designed to be enjoyed by the entire table. The communal dining experience encouraged at Claro mirrors the culinary philosophy of the Tel Aviv restaurant.

While getting acquainted with the menu, Brummell started with Claro’s signature Moroccan Frena bread (an olive oil-rich puffed pita) and the accompanying dips, which included an umami matbucha, creamy labneh and a chilli tasting plate – a mix of dips that varied from the moreish chilli butter to an eye-watering chilli purée that inspired a silly game by the most competitive around the table, which had us quickly grabbing a dab of the cooling labneh to ease the sting.

Our carnivorous nature was satisfied come the main, where we tucked into the fillet of beef, accompanied by green vegetables and celeriac purée, and the highly recommended pork rib. Despite feeling immensely satisfied with the meal, our gluttonous eyes were unwavering from the menu’s healthy offering of fish dishes, which encouraged us to get a taste of yellowtail sashimi with freekeh tabbouleh and octopus carpaccio with a red prune salsa, both as buttery and soft as you could hope for.

‘Have you still got room for dessert?’ asked the enthusiastic waiter. Always. The desserts at Claro each take on a playful twist of the classic recipes we all know and love, featuring dishes such as bread pudding and a parsnip carrot cake. A fitting end to a delicious meal.

The bill

A starter, six sharing plates and a couple of drinks for two is around £200.

The verdict

Relaxed yet refined in equal measure, Claro is a joy to welcome into the London culinary scene, and with mumblings of a special weekend brunch menu set to launch in early 2025, there is no doubt we will be back to grab another taste of what the restaurant has to offer.

Claro, 12 Waterloo Place, London SW1Y 4AU; claro-london.com