The background 

You may want to whisper it, but many Italians will tell you that Rome is not the foodie capital of Italy. Every city, region, town and tiny village clamours for the title of Italy’s culinary capital – and it’s not that Rome doesn’t have a rich foodie history, it’s just been somewhat tainted by bland and mediocre tourist spots. It’s also a little insider secret that Rome hasn’t always had a stellar reputation for upmarket hotels, but all that is set to change in the coming months with a string of new arrivals. Among them are the newly opened Six Senses, The Rome EDITION (due to launch in June 2023) and the InterContinental Rome Ambasciatori Palace, coming in May. 

Another new(ish) arrival is the Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome hotel. Acquired by the luxury Thai hotel group (it was formerly owned by the NH Hotel Group) in late 2021, the palatial hotel has been steadily undergoing a revamp to be more in line with the portfolio’s ethos and aesthetics. 

The 19^th-century, crescent-shaped hotel (actually split into twin Neoclassical-style buildings) is a suitably glamorous bolthole. It’s located close to the Trevi Fountain and the Termini train station, opposite a bustling round-a-bout and the Michelangelo-designed Basilica of St Mary of the Angels and of the Martyrs. Inside, everything is opulent, beautifully – and heavily – scented and oozes fine taste with its original marble and ruins of the Baths of Diocletian (visible through glass panels under the meeting rooms), Murano glass chandeliers, contemporary artwork and trinkets by Italian designers. 

But in order to keep up with the city’s prestigious newcomers, the Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome has poured its heart and soul (and a truckload of cash) into its food and beverage offerings. Launched just in time for the busy spring-summer season is Seen by Olivier da Costa. Pitching itself as the place to see and be seen in Rome, this eminently Instagrammable offering from the eponymous Portuguese chef and businessman is a sprawling, partially covered roof terrace with in-house DJ, outdoor swimming pool, fabulous views and open-plan sushi kitchen. 

The other new culinary string in the hotel’s bow – and one that has been making headlines – is the recently launched INEO, an all-new concept restaurant by celebrated Roman chef Heros De Agostinis.  

Inside INEO 

The word “Ineo” comes from the Latin for “new beginnings”, which sets the tone for the restaurant and for Anantara’s wider vision. The 28-cover restaurant is accessed via a trendy bar area where smiling staff polish glasses in front of a towering low-lit backdrop fitted with origami-inspired bird sculptures. The interiors are elegant and contemporary throughout, replete with checkerboard marble floors, 1960s-style designer lamps and plush leather and velvet seats. It’s all an indication that you’re in for something special. 

The food 

At the helm of INEO is Heros De Agostinis, an acclaimed chef who brings his culinary journey full circle. Born in Rome with an international background (he hails from the coastal Abruzzo region, east of Rome, with Eritrean heritage on his mother’s side), De Agostinis has honed his craft in many fine-dining establishments; most notably at the Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain and earning a Michelin-star at The Lanesborough in London. De Agostinis was mentored by three-Michelin starred German chef Heinz Beck for many years, as well as “Chef of the Century” (according to Gault et Millau restaurant guide) Joël Robuchon and Marc Veyrat, a chef with nine Michelin stars under his belt. 

At INEO, De Agostinis draws on local ingredients, his childhood and global culinary career. Growing up by the coast, fresh seafood plays a big role in the tasting menu. As does complex spice, inspired by the chef’s East African heritage, as his maternal grandmother often incorporated cloves, cardamom and cinnamon into her cooking. This is most evident in the green curry risotto with raw scampi and kaffir lime with its warm, punchy flavours softened by subtle coconut. Raw seafood also pops up in the vibrant red raw Sicilian prawns with mandarin ceviche and tarragon oil dish, as well as the delightfully presented sea scallop carpaccio with Gorizia rose radicchio and grapefruit. The beautiful and delicately presented plates showcase how the chef favours colour and dishes that exude joy. 

Other standout dishes include veal sweetbreads with rainbow Chioggia beetroot, and gnocchi with lamb sauce and wild herbs. Vegetarians and vegans may be raising an eyebrow at this point, but they are well catered to in the “Green” version of the INEO’s Journey seven-course tasting menu. Another highlight is the homemade bread (available in every restaurant within the hotel) that arrives temptingly at your table via its own trolley. 

Verdict 

An intimate and luxurious setting, INEO’s arrival is a triumph; offering inventive and creative dishes that are unique to the capital and sure to satisfy.  

INEO Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome is open Tuesday – Saturday, 7pm-10:45pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 48-49, 00185 Roma, Itália; anantara.com