The background

Le Relais Plaza is one of the most historically, and gastronomically, important restaurants in Paris, so a change of guard is big news. And after a more-than-two-decade run with a titan of French cooking, Alain Ducasse, at the helm, his successor would not only have big shoes to fill but undergo the close scrutiny of the French foodie scene.

Recently taking the reins is Jean Imbert, something of a maverick choice that has caused quite the stir. The 40-year-old arrives with no prior Michelin stars, instead having made his name as the winner of the TV competition Top Chef and with a large social media presence that sees him hobnobbing with the likes of Pharrell and Jay Z. But despite this glamorous facade, he comes with serious chops, having trained at the renowned Institut Paul Bocuse and throughout his career demonstrating a refined appreciation for both the traditional and the contemporary. As well as Le Relais Plaza, he is also presenting another culinary concept at the hotel in the form of the recently launched Jean Imbert au Plaza Athénée.

The space

Le Relais Plaza offers a classic Parisian brasserie experience on a grand scale. Ever since it opened in 1936 it has been the place to see and be seen, with a revolving door of the chicest celebrities of the day. And there’s certainly much to admire in the impressive space, one of the city’s last remaining Art Deco dining rooms, featuring Diane Chasseresse’s original frescoes, a stunning Lalique chandelier and engraved zodiac-stained glass. Elegant modern touches have been respectfully incorporated thanks to a reimagining by design duo Bruno Moinard and Claire Bétaille, while Imbert has helped create unique tableware to bring his concept to life.

The menu

With such a large task on his hands, Imbert has gone big with the menu at Le Relais Plaza. And this is not just when it comes to flavour, but also the portions. This is decadent and comforting French food at its finest, served generously to create a convivial dining atmosphere. Alongside executive chef Jocelyn Herland he has created a lineup of dishes inspired by his grandmother’s hearty cooking, but with the elevated presentation expected of such a destination. This includes sharing starters of her signature pâté, while lighter options draw on the best seasonal French produce for inspiration.

The mains are heavy on the meat and fish options and have a richness perfect for this time of year. A particular showstopper is the immaculate pastry pie, packed with beef fillet and served with a side dish of the creamiest potato dauphinois destined to be shared around the table. Meanwhile, each day of the week there is the opportunity to try a special dish, making it well worth a repeat visit.

As hard as it may be, it’s worth leaving room for dessert. The vision of former world pastry champion Angelo Musa and pastry chef Elisabeth Hot, the pair bring a unique and playful twist on some classics. Particularly intriguing was the île flottante, the usual puffy clouds of meringue transformed into a smart and modern dish that melts in the mouth.

The bill

A meal for two, without wine, is around €200

The verdict

Despite the furore around his appointment, here Imbert proves a safe pair of hands. The dishes don’t stray far from the traditional French brasserie style that is a proven crowd pleaser, but with a sense of refinement and occasion more than worthy of such esteemed surroundings.

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