The background

Acclaimed Los Angeles restaurant Toca Madera is known for its elevated, modern Mexican menus enjoyed in a sophisticated West Hollywood setting, and its new sister outpost in Marylebone has arrived at the Treehouse Hotel to continue this winning formula across the pond – and high above the city.

The space

Overlooking The Langham hotel, Madera at Treehouse London sits on the 15th-storey, and floor-to-ceiling windows really make the most of the spectacular views over London. In keeping with the treehouse concept, rattan furnishings, wood floors and lush greenery soften the smart but industrial space. Guests are greeted with a feature wall of wooden birdhouses with monstera plants dangling their leaves happily in between. The restaurant ups the energy come evening, with a DJ spinning everything from house to jazz during Brummell’s visit. Grab a table for dinner, or a seat at the brass and wood central bar – there is a pretty extensive tequila and agave menu to work through.

The menu

Madera’s organic, seasonal take on traditional Mexican flavours can be enjoyed throughout the day, as it covers breakfast through to dinner. There is a focus on sharing dishes, and the evening menu has a lot of interesting choices. Hot lava stones sizzle past our table while we wolf down fresh guacamole topped with pomegranate with totopos (tortilla chips). A raw bar section offers ceviche and sashimi, while the halibut ensenada (crispy beer-battered halibut with vegan habanero crema served on corn tortillas) from the taqueria section is perfectly prepared for two. The mole de olla (slow baked organic, free-range chicken in oaxacan mole) includes the chef’s family mole recipe, a blend of nearly 30 ingredients that are simmered and smoked for over 24 hours to create a hearty, rich layer of flavours. Even something as simple as a side of sweetcorn gets the Madera treatment, really showing the power of a few good ingredients.

To finish on something sweet, the churros are a sure thing, or for something lighter, the strawberry tres letches is a delicate, beautifully presented hint of warmer times. The farm-fresh plates also extend to a vegan menu, which is almost as extensive as the main offering.

The drinks

The quest for fresh, organic ingredients continues on the drinks menu, with a farm-to-glass mixology programme that uses an extensive collection of premium mezcals and tequilas to create original, intricate cocktails with a hint of your five a day (guajillo-mango, guava and prickly pear all feature). Try the Alma del Sol (Avion Reposado tequila, chile de arbol and turmeric-infused Chase English elderflower, passion fruit purée, lemon juice, agave, zucca amaro and a red wine float) for a sweet but refreshing accompaniment to dishes with a bit of a kick.

Start off the night with a visit to The Nest (open to non-hotel members from 12pm-8pm daily), the intimate rooftop bar at the top of the building, where a bohemian mix of mid-century style furniture and colourful soft furnishings invites you to sit and drink in the incredible view. Pick from a bird-themed cocktail list – the hot Snow Owl (Takamaka coconut, white and spiced rum, pineapple, spices, coconut water and cream) is a warming, festive delight, while the Carmine Bee Eater uses ingredients from within a 30-mile radius of the bar (East London Liquor Gin, Epping Good honey, citrus, Albourne Estate sparkling wine). Race for a sofa and try to plot the local ingredients’ journey as you gaze out over London.

The bill

Starters, sharing plates, dessert and cocktails for two, £100

Summary

Go for the fresh, healthy, high-end Mexican fare that isn’t easy to find in London, and stay for the sleek city vibe and great views. It’s also well located for heading off into Soho to continue the night.

Madera at Treehouse London, 14-15 Langham Place, Marylebone, London W1B 2QS; treehousehotels.com