The background 

Brazilian cuisine often gets an unfair reputation as being all about the meat, yet its diverse culinary heritage offers so much more – that’s the ethos adopted by the former Launceston Place chefs Mehmet Talayhan and Mark Tolentino, who head up the kitchen at Maroto. Inspired by the country’s best ingredients and its traditional flavours, the restaurant reimagines classic dishes through a contemporary European lens via modern techniques and seasonal produce.

The space 

The interior of Maroto is what we’d equate as the BMW of restaurants; chrome touches, sleek leathers and means-business lighting. Just steps away from the bustle of Oxford Street in Mayfair, it offers a chic yet laid-back oasis for a refined dining experience. Plus, with a cocktail lounge nestled downstairs, it’s all too easy to stay until the small hours, where a vibrant atmosphere and beautiful clientele make for an unforgettable evening. 

The food 

In most restaurant dishes, sauces usually play a supporting role, with the spotlight focused on the plate’s headline act. But not at Maroto. Here, not one, not two but five accompanying sauces create an intriguing constellation around the main-course protagonist. Each new mouthful is designed to tick all the flavour profile boxes – spicy, sweet, salty, sour and umami – courtesy of a seasonally changing lineup, the first including BBQ maitake with yuzu and soy, parsley sabayon, black truffle emulsion, burnt orange gel, and avocado with chilli and coriander. You’d be forgiven for questioning how each of these marries with the centrepiece, but it mostly works: butter-poached bacalhau (cod), Aylesbury duck breast or Brazilian beef fillet are the perfect vehicles for a serious flavour journey. 

Elsewhere on the agenda, signature sharing dishes such as the whole chicken, whole fish, and Tomahawk steak saw us extend an invite to our nearest and dearest for a return visit, where we might also be convinced to go Dutch with the rest of the menu (if only just to try more). The grilled tiger prawns with tucupi bisque, prawn mayo and picante mayo was as succulent as you’d wish, the 24-hour barriga de porco (pork belly) with tutu de feijão (refried beans) and piccalilli was exceptionally tender, and for dessert, the grilled pineapple with sage, mint and coconut transported us straight to the tropical shores Maroto takes inspiration from. 

The bill 

A three-course dinner and a couple of drinks for two people is around £180. 

The verdict  

Relaxed yet refined and innovative in equal measure, Maroto feels refreshingly new on the scene. While it doesn’t pretend to be completely authentic in its dishes, its Brazilian influence is clear in its bold attitude and buzzing atmosphere. 

4 Vere St, London W1G 0DJ; Book here.