The background

In 1999, hothead chef Gordon Ramsay opened Pétrus in Piccadilly, just as his fame skyrocketed. The concept was modern French cuisine that represented ‘fine dining at its very best’. Twenty-five years, three AA Rosettes and a Michelin-star (which it has retained for the past 13 years) later, Pétrus is still going strong, with the kitchen now under the stewardship of head chef Orson Vergnaud. The French-born chef, who was formerly at Jason Atherton’s City Social and Galvin La Chapelle, is championing ‘progressive, forward-looking food’ that leans into art and innovation as the restaurant enters a milestone year.

The space

Now based in well-heeled Belgravia (the restaurant’s third location), Pétrus is an elegant, inviting atmosphere whose décor verges on boudoir. A colour palette of grey and white with claret red sets the scene with a nod to the restaurant’s wine association (the name Pétrus comes from the famous Pomerol wine estate in Bordeaux), with plush furnishings, curved walls and crisp white orchids. The space centres around a large glass wine store, which houses over 700 bins including 34 different vintages from the French wine Pétrus (the wine list itself features over 1,200 bottles). Walking into the restaurant feels like taking a step back in time in the best possible way; into an age of proper fine dining, where a team of staff in pressed uniform attends to your every whim, white table cloths remain pristine, and sauces are poured over delicate plates in unison like a choreographed dance. But Vergnaud describes the space as ‘the luxury of home’, where customers feel relaxed and at ease (and long, languid sittings are encouraged), with each need met without them even realising it.

The food

There is a welcome sense of ritual and ceremony to dining at Pétrus; the kind of experience reserved for a very special occasion. Set tasting menus are divided into Prestige, À La Carte, Discovery and a weekday lunch menu, with optional wine pairing. We split a Discovery and pescatarian version of the Prestige menu, with each showcasing standout dishes and ingredients. Ceremony and theatre are all well and good, but to last in the London dining scene for a quarter of a century, the food needs to deliver on all counts. Rest assured, the cuisine at Pétrus is reassuringly exceptional. Dishes are familiar yet modern, with playful twists on classics and exciting new seasonal additions. Pétrus’s signature seafood dish – lobster ravioli – is worth the fame, while the Cornish turbot with tenderstem broccoli, clams and sauce vin jaune is a light and elegant dish that’s served like a large slice of sushi. The potimarron tart (a type of winter squash) with sea lettuce, coffee and sage, and the chunky Isle of Skye scallops with coastal herbs and olive oil sabayon are also both excellent. What’s more, each dish is a work of art and exquisitely presented – not one drop of jus or edible flower is ever out of place. It’s what you would expect in a restaurant of such prestige, but that doesn’t diminish the joy and delight of each dish making its way to your table under the guidance of the smiling and impeccable waiting staff.

The bill

The Weekday Lunch Menu costs £75 per person and the À La Carte option is priced at £120 per person for three courses.

The verdict

Today, the average London foodie is constantly on the hunt for what’s new and exciting in the culinary world: the latest trend, the latest “it” dish or ingredient. Pétrus is unashamedly old school in that it reignites a love of the theatre and spectacle of fine dining. But the seasonal, modern menu is one that will no doubt stand the test of time.

Pétrus by Gordon Ramsay, 1 Kinnerton Street, Knightsbridge SW1X 8EA; gordonramsayrestaurants.com