The background

Restaurant 1890 opened less than three years ago but has quickly become the crown jewel of The Savoy, with executive chef James Sharp earning the restaurant its first Michelin star last year. A first for The Savoy as well.

For inspiration, James and the team at 1890 looked to French culinary titan Georges Auguste Escoffier who was director of kitchens at The Savoy from 1890 (hence the name). During his eight-year tenure, Escoffier revolutionised The Savoy’s dining experiences, recruiting French cooks to challenge traditional British tastes. Under his leadership, The Savoy’s restaurant attracted new and distinguished guests and helped establish the hotel as the icon it is known as today.

Escoffier was also famous for elevating the professionalism of cooking, demanding high standards of cleanliness, discipline and dedication, which were not commonplace in the late 19th century. The professionalism and warmth of the staff speak to Escoffier’s vision of a truly unforgettable dining experience.

The space

The restaurant is tucked away in an intimate space above The Savoy Grill. Turn left before the American Bar, and you are greeted by Restaurant 1890’s stunning bar, which serves a range of exclusive cocktails developed by head bartender Janis Muzikants. Memorabilia from The Savoy’s 120-year history adorns viewing cabinets, inviting guests to ponder the cultural significance of the hotel while sipping a bespoke martini.

After passing through the bar, you are welcomed into a space that shimmers in gold: the restaurant is lined with custom Fromental wallcoverings that contrast beautifully with the crisp white tablecloths. The interior design was overseen by Russell Sage Studio and celebrates the sumptuousness of the Art Deco aesthetic.

People watchers will enjoy the views over The Savoy’s entrance, as the endless flow of black cabs and porters whisking guests’ luggage inside accompanies diners through their meal.

The food

We opted for the seven-course Discovery Wine Pairing tasting menu – wine enthusiasts will delight at the restaurant’s impressive list. The restaurant’s sommeliers also have access to The Savoy Hotel’s cellar, which is arguably one of the most refined in London. Happily, every course of our meal came expertly paired with wine selected by the sommelier.

The tasting menu began with a selection of three flavourful canapés: a black truffle bomb, crispy frog leg and smoked sardine with Granny Smith apple. The presentation is immaculate, served on crockery created by JL Coquet, porcelain makers based in Limoges, France.

Next up was the Isle of Wight tomato and roe, sculpted to resemble a tomato, which – when pierced – theatrically released an amber tomato jus. A delicious homemade Parker House roll came in handy for scooping up the excess.

The main event of the tasting menu was a beautifully presented lamb dish. The succulent, tender chop is served alongside a spiralling vegetable-petalled ratatouille flower, along with dashes of vivid green pistou. To accompany this course, our sommelier chose a firm, complex and dry syrah from celebrated French winemaker Patrick Léon’s signature selection. One of only a few bottles in the world, the earthy aromas from the red married beautifully with the rich lamb.

To follow, we enjoyed a serving of comté d’estive – a rich and nutty gruyère cheese with hints of caramel sweetness, accompanied by homemade crackers, walnuts and grapes. The simplicity of the dish allowed the quality of the ingredients to shine through, showcasing the restaurant’s dedication to sourcing the finest produce. For this course, the sommelier offered an entertaining challenge – two darkened wine glasses, inviting us to guess the wine’s colour, origin and age. It was an effective game to learn more about how to identify wines and put one’s knowledge to the test.

Before dessert, a refreshing kir was served as a palate cleanser, preparing us for the penultimate course: the iconic Peach Melba. Originally created by Escoffier in honour of Australian soprano Nellie Melba, this sweet, refreshing dish was paired wonderfully with a moscatel de setubal superior 1999 from Portugal.

The feast concluded in a suitably charming way with warm, freshly baked vanilla madeleines.

The bill

Discovery Wine Pairing tasting menu is £175 per person, available Tuesday-Saturday from 6.30pm; lunch tasting menu is £85 per person, served on Fridays and Saturdays from 12:30pm.

The verdict

Restaurant 1890 offers an expertly considered and sublime dining experience. From its Art Deco interiors to the precise and inventive menu, the restaurant is a powerful tribute to Escoffier’s legacy. Sharp and his team deliver something quite extraordinary that should not be missed.

Restaurant 1890; 100 The Strand, London, WC2R 0EZ