Brummell recommends: The Savoy Grill

This London establishment has a history with which few restaurants can compete

Food and Drink 7 Aug 2024

The Savoy Grill's signature beef Wellington

The Savoy Grill's signature beef Wellington

The background

Located in the heart of the Savoy Hotel on the Strand, Gordon Ramsay’s Savoy Grill exudes timeless style and sophistication. Exceptional service, food and ambience fights off tough competition to confirm the restaurant as worthy of icon status.

The Savoy Grill first opened in 1899, launching alongside the hotel that shares its name. Phenomenal demand for the Savoy Theatre at the time led Victorian theatre impresario Richard D’Oyly Carte to launch the hotel and restaurant as similarly elegant amenities for London’s theatregoers. Since then, the Grill has become a favourite among celebrities, feeding everyone from Charlie Chaplin to Winston Churchill, Errol Flynn to Elizabeth Taylor. The menu today stays true to what was served nearly 125 years ago, inspired by the very best of British and French cooking and influenced by classic New York grills. In 2003, Gordon Ramsay was brought in to ensure the restaurant’s continued success. He has been at the helm ever since, with head chef Arnaud Stevens joining last year to infuse the menu with further originality and culinary expertise. 

The space

Entering through the revolving doors of the Savoy Hotel, the Grill’s interiors immediately transport you to the glamour of the Gatsby era, promising a memorable experience. The London-based, multi-award-winning interiors studio Afroditi oversaw an extensive redesign last year, breathing new life into this over-a-century-old establishment.

The Interior at the Savoy Grill, formed of elements including velvet booths, silk-lined walls and metallic and glass accents
Interior design elements at the Savoy Grill include velvet booths, silk-lined walls and metallic and glass accents

Features such as velvet booths, silk-lined walls and metallic and glass accents capture a 1920s Hollywood Regency style. Fashion illustrator Thom Botwood’s portraits of cultural icons and national figureheads that have graced the restaurant add a real charm and character to the environment. Swarovski chandeliers, a clock proclaimed to be “Churchill’s favourite” and the original layout of the tables have been retained, highlighting the historical provenance of the space.

The food

To start, premium Louët-Feisser oysters from Carlingford Lough, a glacial fjord in northeastern Ireland, are elevated with blackberry and champagne, perfectly complementing the oysters’ saline freshness. Another standout starter is the yellowtail crudo. Delicate slices of tender yellowtail are artfully arranged with crisp cucumber, tangy dill and aromatic shiso in a beautiful flower shape, offering a refreshing and visually stunning beginning to the meal.

The yellowtail crudo at the Savoy Grill
The yellowtail crudo at the Savoy Grill

For the main courses, the signature beef Wellington is succulent and perfectly cooked. This rich and generous dish is paired nicely with glazed shiitake mushrooms, truffle and a red wine jus. The restaurant currently runs a Beef Wellington Masterclass every Saturday, giving attendees the opportunity to learn how the dish is made, make their own and enjoy it as the centrepiece of a three-course lunch.

The charcoal-grilled fillet steak is also a true delight. Expertly seared to perfection, the fillet steak melts in the mouth, enhanced by a subtle smoky flavour from the charcoal grill. Impeccably seasoned, the natural flavours of the high-quality beef shine through, matched with thoughtfully chosen seasonal vegetables. This steak isn’t just a meal; it’s an experience that perfectly captures the elegance and refinement of the Savoy.

Chefs behind the scenes at the Savoy Grill
Skilful, focused chefs behind the scenes at the Savoy Grill

To finish, a Xoco Mayan red chocolate soufflé with pistachio ice cream, and a sticky toffee pudding with honey ice cream round out the dining experience, leaving a lasting impression of warmth and comfort long after your visit.

A dining table surrounded by shelves of wines
Among the exciting pairings offered by the sommelier, the Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2023 is one of the most popular choices

Another noteworthy aspect of the dining experience at the Savoy Grill is the service. Restaurant director Thierry Tomasin and general manager Santosh Uchil have orchestrated a ballet of sorts, where waiters deliver menus, food, wine and advice with effortless rapidity and tremendous care. The sommelier offers exciting and intriguing pairings and is responsive to personal tastes and interests. The Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2023 quickly became a favourite with its youthful yellow hue and subtle green tones. Upon tasting, its delicate and fine mousse gently cleanses the palate, perfectly balancing its sweetness with a burst of freshness that lingers into a creamy, satisfying finish.

The bill

A three-course meal for two with wine is around £250-300. There is also a post-theatre menu available Monday to Thursday from 9.45pm, including two courses and a glass of wine, at £42, and a lunchtime prix fixe menu of two courses at £55, so it’s possible to experience the luxury of the grill at a reasonable price.

The verdict

Clearly, the Savoy Grill’s glamour and charm has not been lost among the capital’s abundance of change and development. Leaving the restaurant, the red double-decker buses and flickering lights of the Strand’s theatres have a newfound endearment. Even if such romanticism lasts only an evening, it’s worth it.

The Savoy Grill, 100 Strand, London WC2R 0EZ