Founded in 1820 by the Graham brothers, William and John, Graham’s Port is a name synonymous with excellence in the world of fortified wines, its essence flowing through time like the serpentine Douro River. Perched above Vila Nova de Gaia, the historic lodge has witnessed countless seasons, the slow evaporation of the casks housed within its thick stone walls leaving behind liquid treasures. But the story of Graham’s is not just the tale of these Scottish merchants – it’s one of inheritance, intrigue and a continuity now stewarded by Charles Symington, the man tasked with protecting its name in a world which is always hungry for the next big thing.

Charles Symington’s lineage, too, traces back to the 19th century when, in 1882, his ancestor Andrew James Symington sailed from Scotland to Porto. He had no inkling that his descendants would one day assume the mantle from the Grahams themselves. Fast-forward to 1970: Andrew’s grandsons completed the deal of a lifetime acquiring Graham’s, and the Symingtons have been painstakingly shepherding its legacy ever since. Enter Charles, production director – calm, collected, with an almost surgical precision in his approach to winemaking, blending and the meticulous care of the vineyards which stretch across their properties. In his hands rests the future of this legacy, and his motto is unambiguous: ‘With respect for empirical knowledge, improve and innovate.’

Yet there is no room for complacency when your responsibility is bottling time itself. Graham’s recently ventured into uncharted territory with its 50 Year Old Tawny – a category not officially recognised until 2020. This is no simple creation. Charles’s connection to the blend is deeply personal, a testament to patience and providence. ‘One of the core components is from 1969, my birth year,’ he says. ‘My father set it aside and named it “CAS Reserve” – after my initials.’ The other elements, he reveals, are wines from 1970 and 1973, where over 50 per cent has evaporated over the decades, leaving behind an intensity which defies belief.

If wine is history in a glass, then this 50-year-old is a tome. The liquid glows with an amber depth, fringed by a malachite rim – a natural patina of age. ‘The wine is captivating,’ Charles says, but there’s something more behind it. Orange blossom, fruitcake, toffee, tobacco, butterscotch – they all jostle for attention. On the palate? Rich, creamy and balanced by an acidity which keeps it from tipping into becoming over-indulgent. There’s spice – wood, nutmeg, cinnamon – and a finish which lingers like an unresolved chord.

But, as any great wine story requires, there’s scarcity. Only four casks of this extraordinary 50 Year Old Tawny are being released in its first year. Charles admits there’s barely enough to satisfy the thirst of his most loyal collectors. Each bottle tells its own story. And when it’s gone, it’s gone.

Even the packaging has been crafted with rare care. The Portuguese artist, Mariana Rodrigues was commissioned to design illustrations for the box, evoking the rarest fauna of the Douro Valley – creatures so elusive that local residents have only glimpsed them through night-vision cameras.

But for all the grandeur, there’s something quiet about Charles Symington, a man who knows his task is not just to create wine but to manage the delicate tension between past and future. A tension embodied in the Graham’s 1890 Lodge, which remains a fully functioning lodge, its doors open to the public. Visitors can walk through the history of Graham’s, witnessing the complex craft of making and ageing port. ‘This culminates in one of three beautiful tasting rooms where visitors can choose from a selection of different port tastings,’ he says.

As much as Charles might shrug off the accolades that come with his role, it’s clear that winemaking is not just a profession for him – it’s a calling. ‘If I weren’t making wine, I honestly don’t know what else I’d do. It combines science, nature and art, and it’s impossible to walk away from something which brings all those elements together.’ And the reactions to the 50 Year Old Tawny are all the validation he needs. ‘I’ve seen people pause for long moments after their first sip, as if their senses can’t quite catch up to what’s happening in their mouths. And when they do speak, it’s usually in amazement.’

In a world where many wines compete for the title of “the finest”, port stands alone. ‘It’s unparalleled,’ says Charles, confidently but without hubris. ‘No other wine has the same depth, breadth or longevity, and very few have the same consistency in quality. Our job is to remind people of that – and once they taste it, they’re often hooked for life.’

It’s not surprising, then, that Graham’s chose London as one of the key cities for the global launch of the 50 Year Old. ‘The UK has always been a vital market for us,’ says Charles. ‘We held events in London, Porto, Lisbon, Paris, Amsterdam and even South Korea, but London had to be one of the first.’

And when asked who he would raise a glass of the 50 Year Old to, Charles doesn’t hesitate: ‘To my father, Peter, who had the wisdom to set these wines aside for ageing. I’d toast to miracles.’

Miracles indeed. Because in every drop of Graham’s 50 Year Old Tawny, there’s something close to alchemy – the transformation of time into something which can be tasted, savoured and remembered. And as long as Charles Symington is at the helm, the future of this venerable house looks to be in safe hands, even as the clock continues to tick.

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