Located in the heart of London’s Covent Garden, J Sheekey has been serving the finest fish, shellfish and seasonal game since it was founded by Josef Sheekey in the 1890s. Sheekey was given permission by Lord Salisbury to serve fish and shellfish in St Martin’s Court, only by agreeing to supply meals to Salisbury’s after-theatre dinner parties.

Over a century later, the restaurant retains its Victorian charm, and the J Sheekey Oyster Bar – now the J Sheekey Atlantic Bar – was opened next door to the main restaurant in 2008 as a slightly more informal dining destination, with delicious food eaten around the horseshoe-shaped bar or on tables overlooking the open kitchen.

This year, the bar is welcoming renowned guest chefs from around the country to celebrate the best in seafood cookery, and last month it was the turn of Michelin-starred chef Mark Sargeant of Rocksalt to take the helm, using some of the produce used in his own kitchen. Each chef gives a rare insight into their respective approaches, methods and signature cooking styles, as they discuss their philosophies with diners after the meal.

The next supper club will take place on 22 May with Bruce Rennie, the chef who made his name running restaurants for some of the UK’s top chefs, including Gary Rhodes and Rick Stein. As the only chef working at The Shore in Penzance, Rennie enjoys creating menus inspired by the seashore, using the daily fresh produce around him.

For his special appearance at J Sheekey Atlantic Bar, he has worked with executive head chef Andrew McLay to develop a menu that reflects his own small, locally sourced seafood menu.

His four-course menu includes breaded oyster, ginger and cucumber with an orange, parsley and Campari shot; citrus-marinated pollack, passionfruit, tomato and coriander; cornish hake, cauliflower, lime pickle, curried bisque, crispy pilau rice; and white chocolate and vanilla delice, strawberries and basil sorbet.

The menu will be served alongside a dedicated Plymouth Gin cocktail list, specially devised by bar manager Giuseppe Masala to complement each guest chef’s menu.

Tickets are priced at £50 per person, including a minimum of four courses and excludes booking fee, drinks and service charge; j-sheekey.co.uk