WORDS
Nicholas Ross and Chris Madigan
Soho House is shaking (and stirring) things up this winter, unveiling what it hopes will be a trailblazing new “no and low” alcohol drinks menu. This is to cater to what it claims is an increasingly mindful and health-conscious attitude among its members – which may come as a surprise to anyone who last visited the club some years ago. The inventive range of sobriety-friendly libations will now make up 30 per cent of the drinks menu across all international locations and is also an acknowledgement of the cultural diversity of the membership.
The members’ club is no newcomer to “no and low”; it was one of the first venues ever to stock Seedlip, the world’s first distilled non-alcoholic spirit. Now, it aims to show why it prefers to speak of “no and low” rather than “mocktails”. Along with other staff who played roles in the new menu, Cyril Françoise, its true mastermind, believes that people make a mistake by framing non-alcoholic drinks in terms of what they are missing rather than what they can add. As head of bars for the UK, Europe and Asia, he has curated a selection of drinks here that are both daring and delicious, demonstrating why the whole mocktail spiel represents a major infraction against epicureans everywhere.
Take the Tommy’s skinny margarita. Made with Quarter Proof’s Blanco Agave Spirit, it offers all the zing of a traditional margarita with just a fraction of the alcohol. Another standout is the zero-proof hibiscus nogroni, featuring Pentire Adrift, a smoky, herbaceous non-alcoholic spirit. It delivers the bold complexity of a negroni minus the prospect of a hangover. For those in the mood for something refreshing, there’s the Livener paloma, which uses Three Spirit Livener, a gut-friendly botanical elixir with scintillating citrus notes. And the wildflower highball is a concoction of Seedlip Garden 108 and the herbaceous Botivo, comprising ingredients designed to boost gut health.
Alongside the cocktails there are other non-alcoholic curiosities such as “G spot lift”, a sparkling drink infused with nootropics and adaptogens, part of a range of drinks from Sex Education actor Gillian Anderson, which promises to keep your proverbial spirits high. Then there’s Trip, a calming CBD-infused beverage brand, and Marna, a premium whole-leaf iced tea made in the UK.
In 2022, your friendly neighbourhood Tom Holland embarked on a path of sobriety after struggling to complete Dry January. Bero, the premium non-alcoholic beer he has since released, represents his commitment to the teetotal life. Soho House’s UK venues will be the first to serve Bero on tap, beginning with Soho Mews House and other London locations. It will appear alongside other non-alcoholic beers including Guinness 0.0% and Lucky Saint. For oenophiles, meanwhile, there’s a selection of Nooh wines, which includes a still and sparkling rosé from Château La Coste. This alcohol-free take on Soho House’s signature Lady A rosé is astoundingly packed with flavour and feels no less sophisticated than if you were drinking an alcoholic counterpart.
Since opening its doors in 1995, Soho House branches have been the ultimate destinations for creatives, offering everything from dining and workspaces to spas and screening rooms. With its latest drinks menu, the club aims to cater to the tastes and wants of its members, who are increasingly abstaining and moderating. These “no and low” options offer a way to do so without compromising on the quality of the Soho House experience.
More low- and no-alcohol highlights in London to keep you dry beyond January
Equal Parts
The Hackney bar’s winter menu has expanded the “low and zero-proof” section significantly. Bryn Lovell, who takes a culinary approach to cocktail development, has introduced such new highlights as “Misterio”, made with floral-infused mate, lime and jalapeño water for that bite often missing in non-alcoholic concoctions; and “Tant Pis”, a milk punch-style drink using hemp-based non-alcoholic spirit Pathfinder, Greek yoghurt, cloves (again, for intensity) and green cardamom.
London Edition hotel bar
The Fitzrovia branch of the Ian Schrager chain is known – like all Schrager hotels – for its lobby bar. This year, a six-cocktail Dry January list includes three non-alcoholic versions of Edition classics, as well as three bespoke concoctions blended with Almave, the first non-alcoholic blue agave spirit from Jalisco. There’s a picante (jalapeño-infused Almave Ambar, jalapeño syrup, cucumber juice, lime juice and Tajín); a paloma (Almave Ambar, fresh grapefruit juice, lime juice and sparkling grapefruit soda); and a Tommy’s margarita (Almave Ambar, fresh lime and agave syrup). For those looking for full smugness, there are vegan dishes on the menu at the hotel’s Berners Tavern restaurant, such as zero-waste roasted broccoli stem and organic spelt artichoke risotto.
La Petite Maison
The Mayfair restaurant that’s a paean to the French Riviera and Belle Époque is currently offering “une petite pause” from alcohol, with a menu of 0% ABV cocktails using Lyre’s non-alcoholic beverages. These include the Tomati-NO, a martini-shaped drink made with clarified tomato water, white balsamic vinegar, and a pinch of salt and pepper; L’Orgeat with Lyre’s Amaretti, lemon and almond milk; and a rosé champagne colada with Lyre’s Spiced Rum, Lyre’s Classico, 0% rosé wine, and coconut and pineapple cordial – among several others. These drinks are available in all branches of LPM (including Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Miami and Hong Kong), as well as the London original.
Archive & Myth
The creative cocktail bar tucked away in the unlikely hiding place of the Hippodrome, off Leicester Square, has been hosting no and low takeovers from guest bars every Tuesday throughout the month. The last one takes place on 28 January – bringing the inspiration that night is the team from Hey Palu, the Italian aperitivo bar in Edinburgh’s Old Town.
Cahoots, Mr Fogg’s, Control Room B
The Inception Group of bars, which includes Control Room B at Battersea Power Station, Cahoots Underground (Kingly Court, off Carnaby Street) and Cahoots Postal Office (Borough Market), as well as the various iterations of Mr Fogg’s, has hooked up with CleanCo (non-alcoholic gin, at Control Room B and Mr Fogg’s) and Seedlip (Cahoots and Mr Fogg’s) to provide a wide range of no-booze cocktails till the end of the month. As is the way with Inception bars, the menus involve some curiosities and playfulness. These are just the right side of the line from gimmicky – such as energy boosts, codebreaking and a secret society of wellness… It could be just the fun tonic you need to get through the last stretch of Dry January.