When you’re next on the hunt for a memorable meal in Paris, be sure to visit Le Clarence. Set in a 19th-century townhouse just off the Champs-Élysées, its regal interior (the building is owned by Prince Robert of Luxembourg) may feel like a glittering cocoon of the old world and traditional, but head chef Christophe Pelé’s dishes provide a refreshing contrast.

At Le Clarence, there is no set menu: Pelé has created a two-Michelin-starred collection of modern and inventive tasting menus that change according to what’s freshest in the market that day. Gratifyingly, Le Clarence was voted the second finest restaurant in France (and 28th in the world) by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2022. The famous guide describes Pelé as ‘an artist when it comes to marrying produce from land and sea’. Expect dishes such as scallops with buffalo milk, matcha tea powder and lemon caviar, and pear granita and sake for dessert.

And the wine list is a real triumph, too, helped by the fact that on the ground floor of the building is La Cave du Château. Here, you’ll find a showcase of 250 winegrowers, with over 2,400 fine wines and champagnes, including the best French spirits and aperitifs, rare bottles, old vintages, secret flacons and large-format bottles, all of which the restaurant’s sommeliers put to good use.

Tasting menu from € 180; le-clarence.paris