In this time of special releases and one-off bottlings, it’s reassuring to see a single malt distillery announce a permanent addition to its range aged over 20 years. Fans of The Dalmore’s dear departed 25YO, for example, be comforted by Whyte & Mackay committing to its new 21YO for a minimum of five years. It’s like Netflix guaranteeing you won’t emotionally invest in a show only to cancel it after a season.

The Dalmore’s master distiller, Richard Paterson, has been a pioneer in the art of finishing. There were times when people thought he was being gimmicky with his experimental use of casks that had previously contained unusual wines (unusual for ageing whisky, anyway), and he was even laughed at for his combinations of multiple finishes. But these are now the norm for many distilleries, especially at the luxury end of the market.

Paterson has ceded some of his day-to-day responsibilities to a new generation now. But master whisky maker Gregg Glass has the same enthusiasm for bold maturation programmes as his mentor. Usually, “finishing” in a different wood from the original ex-bourbon ageing is a matter of a few months. The Dalmore 21 Year Old has been in 30-year-old Matusalem sherry butts for up to three years… it’s an exercise in time and patience. And Paterson and Glass are sticklers for detail – word has it, the casks used for the 21YO are specifically located close to the floor and the damper walls of the traditional dunnage (earthen-floored) warehouse where they mature, to heighten the hints of oxidation, antique furniture and sherry notes.

The 21YO rounds out the age-statement fixtures of the distillery on the Cromarty Firth. It starts with the 12YO and progresses through 15YO and 18YO. The 15YO deserves a special mention, in Brummell’s opinion: finished in three different sherry butts, it has great balance – sweet nuttiness from Matusalem; dry spices from Apostoles solera casks; and an overall creaminess from Amoroso. But the 21YO is an even more grown-up expression of The Dalmore.

Tasting notes

The Dalmore 21 Year Old (£575, 43.8%ABV) 

On the nose: Leather, tobacco, a pleasant cellar must and furniture wax.

On the palate: It has the classic flavour profile of the renowned Highland distillery… toffee richness with smooth marmalade notes. But it is a grown-up version with drier fruit and spice, as well as an earthy nuttiness.

On the finish: It ends with a lingering uptick of spicy freshness.