Canali, Armani and Brioni at Milan men’s fashion week

Taking a gentle approach to formalwear, Canali, Giorgio Armani and Brioni opted for relaxed shapes and deconstructed tailoring in their spring/summer 2025 collections

Style 24 Sep 2024

Canali SS25

Canali SS25

Renowned for its sharp tailoring, the luxury suit maker Canali presented a collection inspired by a day trip to la casa sul lago – the lake house. Leisurewear and tailoring blend organically though lightweight construction and flowing volumes, while unlined blazers, blousons and field jackets come with invisible seams, ensuring comfort as well as understated elegance.

Models wearing Canali SS25
Canali SS25

The calming colour palette of green, blue and brown hues captured the placid atmosphere of a lakeside villa nestled among pine-swathed hills in Northern Italy. The quality of materials – such as fine wool and textured linen – is at the core of the brand’s DNA, as the president and CEO Stefano Canali told us.

Giorgio Armani SS25 garments
Giorgio Armani SS25 garments

Taking place at the Teatro/Armani – a masterpiece of muted architecture by Tadao Ando – the Giorgio Armani spring/summer 2025 show was a celebration of the brand’s timeless silhouettes. Voluminous four-pleat trousers with an almost-translucent texture were paired with matching relaxed button-up blousons, instilling laid-back charm. Three-button single-breasted jackets with shawl collars in grey and beige were interchanged with navy and twilight blue guru-collar blazers, each layered over fine knitwear. Once again, Mr Armani demonstrated how his wardrobe’s archetypes stand the test of time.

Light, fluid-looking Brioni garments worn by a model
Brioni SS25 captured lightness and fluidity through ultra-luxe yet weightless materials

At Brioni, design director Norbert Stumpfl pursued lightness and fluidity with a collection of exquisitely soft tailoring. Unstructured blazers, shirting and trench coats came in ultra-luxe yet weightless materials such as cashmere-silk blends, vicuña and nappa leather. Aqua green and intense blue livened a colour palette of browns and greys inspired by the Scuola Romana painters, while eveningwear was embellished with fine embroideries – a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship of Brioni’s master tailors.

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