Age is but a number, and Crockett & Jones may well be knocking on for 150-years-old, but it’s still one of the most innovative shoemakers in the business. Founded in 1879, the Northampton brand has long been at the cutting edge of fine shoe production, and the new spring/summer 2025 collection is only further testament to its pioneering spirit.
First, a new wedge sole in gum rubber, which Crockett & Jones has never offered before. So called for the incline of the heel, the wedge sole was conceived and made at C&J’s Northampton factory – one of the last bastions of handmade British shoes, incidentally – and designed to offer comfort, flexibility, durability and grip. Think the plush comfort of a pair of trainers, with the sleek finish of a classic shoe.
The wedge sole serves as the basis for much of the spring/summer 2025 collection, sitting beneath boots, loafers and lace-ups alike. In the Tresco, C&J’s warm-weather take on the classic oxford, it serves to soften the formality of the traditional business shoe and complement the suede upper, available in suitably summery shades of khaki, pistachio and pastel blue. The shoe is “unstructured”, meaning that it is made without the usual lining, which makes it lighter, softer, and more flexible – perfect for when the mercury rises. And there is no toe stiffener in the Tresco, either, but C&J ensure it will still hold its gently rounded edge, so you can still dress it up if you want to. Despite its feathery form, the Tresco is Goodyear welted, so the sole is easily replaceable should the need ever arise.
Next, the Salcombe II loafer has been recast in snuff, desert and pistachio suede. Previously (and still) available on C&J’s Superflex leather sole, the new wedge rubber sole lends it a little more riviera chic. Perfect if you’re at risk of finding yourself on a sun-dappled yacht at any point this summer. At once sumptuous and minimalist, the Salcombe is C&J’s bestselling plain-front loafer, and built around the brand’s 376 last, which is specifically designed to minimise heel slip, a perennial qualm for loafer lovers the world over.
Despite the season, the boots are perhaps the pick of the spring/summer collection. C&J is known for its mastery of hardy ankle boots, but the new Chukka 4 and Bibury are both an exercise in refinement. Produced on the rounded last 374 – a shape C&J describe as ‘playful’ – the Chukka 4 is unlined, with an upper cut from just three pieces of leather. While the Bibury – a skew of the classic chukka with a butted seam apron on the toe – is slightly less formal, and built on the 378 last, which is especially good for those with wider feet.
Finally, a note on the suede featured throughout the new spring/summer collection, which has the gently indecorous title of “reverse butt suede”. The variant, says C&J, is an especially good base for rich colours, and it offers excellent durability and therefore longevity in wear. Essentially, it will easily see you through to next summer. But any pair of Crockett & Jones shoes would last you much, much longer than that.
