Formal occasions often come with a strict dress code to match – particularly for men. And while sartorial rules can’t always be broken, they can at least be subtly subverted. Enter Favourbrook, the master of sophistication delivered with a heavy dose of charm and charisma.

The independent formalwear company is the brainchild of Oliver Spencer, a seasoned designer who doesn’t see why wearing the correct attire has to mean compromising on individual style. ‘You don’t need to go wild with colours or patterns, especially in your accessories. Given that the black-tie standard is a black dinner jacket, you can turn a lot of heads by opting instead for a racing green or navy blue velvet jacket, for example,’ says Spencer. ‘The details always matter, of course, so swapping out a plain dress shirt for a bib-front style is a good idea or use elements such as a pocket square to introduce a subtle flourish of colour. Less is almost always more.’

There’s certainly much to catch the eye in the Favourbrook autumn 2024 collection. It takes inspiration from the flamboyance of the 1970s, when traditional tailors and shirtmakers started to embrace a new informality. Classic pieces such as dinner and smoking jackets are presented in rich hues of chocolate, olive, emerald green and a deep port red, adding understated yet unexpected colour. And, as Spencer says, much can be expressed in the fine touches, with the simple addition of one of its frill dress shirts instantly injecting personality into evening attire.

Inventive use of textiles has always been at the heart of Favourbrook. Fresh out of art school, Spencer was afforded the opportunity to delve into the seconds rolls of Stephen Walters. Transforming the historic silk mill’s quality wares into waistcoats ingrained in him a passion that continues to be imbued in the label’s creations.

‘The 1970s was a really interesting and experimental period for menswear on the whole as subcultures came to the fore,’ says Spencer. ‘But for all the different tribes that emerged, the one thing tying them together was a new and creative approach to fabrics. There were some pretty wild silhouettes too, but I remember being fascinated by all the different types of textures available. Denim and corduroy took centre stage before designers started to get to grips with synthetic fibres such as nylon and polyester. It was a really key moment and menswear felt like it was pivoting towards a new modernity.’

For Favourbrook autumn/winter 2024, designs come in the form of corduroy suits and sumptuous velvets in warm jewel tones. Underscored with the calm confidence you’d want to convey at any important event, the collection is packed with pieces that feel as special to wear as they look. ‘The velvets are always my favourite,’ reveals Spencer. ‘I know you shouldn’t love one child more than the other, but in the case of our velvet eveningwear, it has a special place in my heart. The rich cotton pile, the plush texture, the way it reflects light – it all makes wearing the jackets so much fun.’

favourbrook.com