Northampton has long been known for its shoemaking industry. Located in the centre of the UK, the town has always had access to the three main ingredients needed for crafting footwear: cattle (for leather), oak trees and water (for tanning) from the River Nene. By 1840 it was said to house over 1,800 shoemakers, and while that number has died down considerably since then – there are only seven remaining today – the town is still regarded as a shoemaking haven. Some of the finest artisans are still making in the same manner they were hundreds of years ago. Chief among them is Edward Green, a brand widely considered among the best in the world.

Established during the height of the Second Industrial Revolution in 1890, Edward Green’s eponymous founder was intent on producing shoes the old-fashioned way, prioritising quality and design over mass manufacturing. Mr Green set about employing Northampton’s most skilled workers and craftspeople, his motto, ‘excellence without compromise’, quickly resonating with his clients. Some of the early 20th century’s most stylish men – including Edward, Duke of Windsor, Ernest Hemingway and Cole Porter – entrusted Edward Green with the fabrication of their shoes. Elsewhere, military contracts meant the brand was among the lead manufacturers of officers’ boots for the British army.

In some ways, Edward Green hasn’t changed much since that time. Known for uncompromising standards, and renowned as much for its elegant dress shoes as its durable boots, the brand is a byword for quality. ‘We’re committed to making the very highest standard of English-made Goodyear-welted boots and shoes,’ says head of brand and business development, Euan Denholm. ‘Carefully selected leathers, well-proportioned lasts and attentive craftsmanship make for handsome, timeless footwear.’

Naturally, the tastes, interests and needs of its clients are very different today. But the desire for craft and attention to detail is just the same. ‘Today’s men’s wardrobe tends to be less formal and prescriptive, but interest in detail and provenance has only increased,’ says Denholm. ‘So the style mix has changed somewhat for us – more boots and loafers – but at the same time men choosing Edward Green are not looking for this season’s fad; they want a classic which will last for years to come. We’ve become very sensitised as to what tweaks and evolutions will make those classics of tomorrow.’

Look at the brand’s range today, and you’ll find traditionally styled shoes and boots. Look closer, and you’ll spot subtle differences. If you want a classic pair of penny loafers that will last you a lifetime, Edward Green has made those for decades. But if you want a softer, unlined pair you can wear on holiday, the brand has that too.

It’s a similar story with boots: its slender suede Chelsea boot will complete a three-piece suit with aplomb. But there’s also a rougher, more durable take complete with a rounder last, a rubber Dainite sole and harder-wearing waxed suede, which better complements selvedge denim. Updating a heritage brand is a fine balance, but one Edward Green has successfully managed. ‘For us, it’s important that new designs feel like they’re a natural evolution,’ says Denholm. ‘We don’t feel that people want an Edward Green trainer – it wouldn’t be authentic. But there’s no doubt that the softer shoe categories are growing, so we also need to be open to how we can make for changing tastes in a way that’s true to our DNA. The Portland and Polperro travel slippers are something that we’re known for now, and show that it can be done.’

For Edward Green, these small changes ensure the brand appeals to a wide range of clientele, from Italy to Japan. But each pair still references the brand’s legacy while offering the quality and comfort that Mr Green originally intended. ‘Our most popular lasts have been with us for many years,’ says Denholm. ‘But even when we have new additions – such as the 303, which will be in-store this autumn – they are based on the same fundamental proportions. Above all else, for us, good fit is essential – your feet don’t appreciate exaggeration.’

75 Jermyn St, St James’s, London SW1Y 6NP; edwardgreen.com