WORDS
Nicholas Ross
Shooting Wear is the latest instalment in Huntsman of Savile Row’s fascinating history. Established in 1849, the company enjoyed the patronage of aristocrats in Great Britain and throughout the continent. It earned the first of its Royal Warrants in 1886, as Europe’s well-to-do became enamoured with its exquisitely crafted hunting coats, riding breeches and robust tweed garments. The tailor achieved even greater popularity in the post-World War II period, when it began outfitting legends of Hollywood’s Golden Age such as Clark Gable and Katharine Hepburn, not to mention a multitude of writers, royalty and statesmen, including Gore Vidal and Winston Churchill.
Its head cutter at the time, Colin Hammick, had combined the features of classic tuxedos with those of hacking jackets, which help riders look elegant astride their horses. Thus the “House Cut” was born, for which the Savile Row tailor remains known to this day. Jackets in this flattering style are characterised by firm shoulders, high armholes, single-button fastenings and close-cut, structured silhouettes that fall into flared “skirts”. The clothes have starred in films including Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy (2011) and Kingsman: The Secret Service (2014), where the influence of Huntsman’s equestrian heritage over costumes the tailor supplied is evident.
Now, Shooting Wear, its first-ever capsule collection dedicated to the sport, sees the house return to its rural roots. Shooting is not only a sport, of course, but a lifestyle; it comes with a system of etiquette that includes a dress code – of which the gilet is frequently a part. Enter the Moorland shooting vest, which appears alongside matching russet check breeks.
These both exemplify the nod to British countryside in the collection’s natural colourways, which also provide a lot of camouflage. The vest is made from 14oz tweed from the historic Lovat Mill in Hawick (situated right by the location where the term “tweed” was first adopted by William Watson & Sons). The fabric features a distinctive tan/terracotta pattern with a hairline overcheck. On the functionality front, the garment boasts deep inside pockets and Alcantara-quilted shoulder patches under which there are recoil pad pockets to enhance comfort while shooting. The breeks, meanwhile, are fully lined to keep the wearer’s body warm. They feature a Velcro fastening at the calf with a durable Alcantara trim and have a reverse-pleated design.
The lightweight green super dry wax shooting jacket is perhaps the collection’s standout. It’s crafted from premium cotton woven in Dundee that features a “super dry” wax coating to make it water-repellent. Details such as its belt, collar and extra matt finish make the jacket a stylish outer layer with which you can complement all manner of traditional field sports attire. At the same time, it can be just as agreeably harmonised with Huntsman’s more urban bespoke and ready-to-wear garments.
What this collection so successfully shows is how timeless country sophistication is the sum of both style and functionality. This is also attested by the autumnal-looking Harries Towton cap, which comes in a classic gun check pattern made from 100 per cent wool, and an elegant pair of trousers made from a durable drill fabric in a deep rust colour.
Campbell Carey, creative director of Huntsman, illustrates the point while speaking of the final piece in the Shooting Wear: ‘The Huntsman exclusive house check sports jacket, in our world-renowned signature one-button silhouette, is perfectly suited for both town and country. This jacket features subtle nuances that make it ideal for the field, including deep patch pockets, suede trim, pocket flaps and a cinched half-belt for added movement. Cut in the perfect weight tweed and woven in Yorkshire, the design is inspired by the rustic tones of the outdoors in late summer and autumn. With sumptuous accent colours of rust and burgundy on an ombre base of chocolate brown and clerical grey, it makes the perfect key piece to accessorise one’s wardrobe.’