It’s no secret that Prada is one of the most anticipated shows at Milan fashion week, simply because very few designers dare to challenge the notion of fashion as Mrs Prada – together with Raf Simons since 2020 – can do. The men’s autumn/winter 2025 collection was no exception. Arriving at the Deposito (the ever-evolving show space reimagined each season by scenographers OMA), we were greeted with a multistorey scaffold structure carpeted with Art Nouveau-inspired rugs. A maze of metal piping meant attendees found themselves in small compartments, suggesting an urge for intimacy. 

On the catwalk, the designers explored the intersection between creativity and primitive instincts: youthful, bare-chested models emerged in sheepskin-trimmed car coats over narrow formal trousers. A vintage-like floral print appeared over distressed T-shirts, add-on hoodies and the ever-present pointy cowboy boots. 

‘Things can come together, even if they seem like they’re not supposed to be together,’ says Prada’s co-creative director Raf Simons. ‘We do not want to limit ourselves… Our aim was to make it feel warm and human and instinctive, but also beautifully domestic in a way.’ This sentiment played out in striped pyjama trousers paired with oversized, cocooning knits, while the classic suit took on an unexpected edge in buttery brown leather. ‘It’s creativity without overthinking,’ Miuccia Prada replied backstage to those looking for rationale.

An enthusiastic spirit was palpable at Brunello Cucinelli, which transformed its Milanese headquarters into a radio station, hosting distinguished guests including Swiss conductor Lorenzo Viotti, and Chinese actor and singer Li Yunrui. Meanwhile, models lounged in chunky knitwear and sporty jackets effortlessly paired with deconstructed formalwear. 

This season, however, the label’s typically muted colour palette was enlivened by unexpected bursts of crimson, offering a sophisticated yet laid-back spezzato look.

Elsewhere, Corneliani presented a collection of contemporary menswear staples alongside a moving dance performance directed by Kate Coyne, artistic director of the Central School of Ballet in London. Dancers, dressed in pure cashmere coats and soft nappa leather jackets, moved gracefully on a rotating platform in the cloister of the historic Palazzo Durini, depicting gestures of camaraderie. 

‘We used robust fabrics, but we wanted to showcase their fluidity,’ says Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, Corneliani’s style director, highlighting a cocooning knit in lime green mélange.