WORDS
Joel Barrick
‘The shoes maketh the man’ may be a bit of a cliché, but – like most clichés – it has a kernel of undeniable truth to it. Pairing the perfect footwear with your outfit is a sign of a man with a certain unshakeable sophistication. Whether it’s battered hi-tops at a black-tie event, or a pair of oxblood monk-straps worn with cargo shorts, some combinations are just plain wrong. The post-pandemic shift in dress codes may have blurred the lines somewhat, as we turn to softer lines and more relaxed silhouettes, but picking the right shoe for the right outfit is still key.
But even if you know your penny loafers from your espadrilles, and infallibly pick the right footwear for the occasion, for the aesthetically inclined, the question of quality invariably arises. Which is where Edward Green comes in Founded in 1890 in the historic shoemaking hub of Northampton, by the eponymous Edward Green, the company has graced the feet of such paragons of masculine style as Ernest Hemingway and Edward, the Duke of Windsor. “Excellence without compromise” was Green’s promise, and it is a standard that still holds true today, in the company’s selection of French and Italian calf leathers, its use of classic and time-tested lasts, and its meticulous and conscientious production process. Alongside its custom offering, its team of60 artisans creates just 350 pairs of shoes a week– a far cry from the “pile it high, sell it cheap” approach endemic to so much of today’s fashion and footwear worlds.
It is this way of looking at things that has attracted some of the UK’s most stylish men to Edward Green. Jeremy Langmead, for example, edited Esquire magazine, was at the head of high-fashion menswear destination Mr Porter at its launch, and is the author of Vain Glorious: A Shameless Guide for Men Who Want To Look Their Best. He is a fan of the Piccadilly loafer – built on the brand’s 184 last and made from suede, it is a versatile staple.
As Langmead says, they ‘look lovely with a pair of jeans and chinos… They’re also really nice without a sock on, too. They just have a really nice balance.’ What’s more, they are ‘super comfortable – that’s always been the thing for me with Edward Green’.
Douglas Cordeaux is the managing director of Fox Brothers – a Somerset woollen mill that has an even longer heritage than Edward Green, having been founded in 1772. Cordeaux knows menswear from all angles, having moved on from Pepe Jeans to the helm of Fox Brothers, whose fine fabrics have been seen on screen stars from Fred Astaire and Cary Grant to Ralph Fiennes.
He is partial to the Dover lace-up Derby, built on the square-toed 606 last, which perfectly blends aesthetic appeal and comfort: ‘It’s really nice to have a properly functional pair of beautiful shoes… It’s almost like wearing trainers.’ Edward Green, he adds makes ‘beautifully finished pairs of shoes – that proper benchmark quality’.
The Dover has now been updated as part of Edward Green’s Modern Classics range, and is available in a part-lined construction that is incredibly supple and offers supreme comfort. Made with beautifully soft matt calfskin, called Arno, the new Dover is ideal for the “new normal” of hybrid dressing. The Arno is also used in the Modern Classics update of the Chelsea cap-toe Oxford which, like the Dover, has a thicker rubber sole that is ideal with modern cuts of trouser.
As the seasons turn, you may be looking for something a little sturdier, and Edward Green has you covered there, too. It has a lengthy heritage with boots – in the 1930s, it made the highest grade of officers’ boots – and its waxed suedes, tanned in Yorkshire, are rugged and the ideal partner to denim.
Despite its heritage in England’s shoemaking capital, fans of Edward Green are not limited to denizens of the UK. Italian vintage collector, street style icon (283,000 followers on Instagram and counting…) and creative director of American-meets-Italian luxury brand Fortela, Alessandro Squarzi is the proud owner of more than 50 pairs. He swears by the Belgravia loafer – ‘I always take it with me on all my journeys for any engagement – I’m always smart when I’m wearing it’ – and calls the Piccadilly ‘a fantastic shoe in a wonderfully soft leather – extremely comfortable’. Edward Green appeals to his sensibilities and demands for well-made products that last, ‘because it is full of history, and this makes a difference compared to other shoemakers – culture and history add a huge amount of value to a product’.
So, there you have it. History, beauty and comfort – and the approval of some of the most discerning menswear experts around.
75 Jermyn St, St. James’s, London SW1Y 6NP, 020 7839 0202; edwardgreen.com