When deciding where to open its next boutique in the City of London, the team behind Oliver Brown had plenty to consider. ‘Opening a store in the heart of the City has been an ambition of mine for a while now,’ says brand founder Kristian Ferner Robson. ‘Knowing how many of our customers work in the City, finding the right spot here was crucial. When I stumbled upon 66-67 Cornhill, near Leadenhall Market and The Royal Exchange, I was impressed.’ Following the tailoring house’s shops in two of London’s most stylish areas, Jermyn Street and Lower Sloane Street, the new City store showcases the brand’s latest offering while placing an emphasis on craft and tradition.

Founded in 1998, the idea behind Oliver Brown was to create a one-stop shop for those looking for classic British clothing, cut from beautiful fabrics and with exceptional attention to detail. This notion has always applied to the brand’s ready-to-wear collection, but also to its made-to-measure and bespoke department.

Oliver Brown bespoke is the ultimate expression of the brand’s expertise. ‘We have clients who have been coming to us for bespoke for generations, drawn to the quality and personal service that we offer,’ says Ferner Robson. ‘But we also welcome newcomers who discover us online through our ready-to-wear pieces, only to be drawn to the world of made-to-measure and bespoke awaiting them in our store.’

For those unfamiliar with the world of true bespoke, it involves commissioning a garment, which is drawn up, cut and sewn to the exact measurements of the client’s body. Each bespoke Oliver Brown item is handmade at the Lower Sloane Street store, with clients receiving two or three fittings over a period of 12 weeks. The finished article, which takes around 80-100 hours, will fit the client’s physique like nothing else. ‘Each garment is entirely crafted by hand, reflecting a tradition of craftsmanship that has passed down through generations,’ says Ferner Robson.

It’s a laborious process, testing the maker’s skills at every stage, with ‘four to five different artisans each contributing their specialist expertise to craft a single garment’. But, as Ferner Robson acknowledges, there is nothing else like it, and the experience of commissioning something is part of the allure. ‘We take pride in inviting customers downstairs to our workshop, where they can witness first-hand the craftsmanship behind their garments,’ he says.

What are the processes one goes through when choosing bespoke? ‘We start by hand- drafting paper patterns, then chalk them onto the chosen cloth. After cutting the cloth by hand, we loosely stitch the suit for the initial fitting. Following adjustments, we move to the second fitting. Further tweaks are made before the second fitting. Specialists then add finishing touches by hand, including attaching the lining and buttonholes. Finally, each suit is expertly hand-pressed and ready to be taken home.’

The results speak for themselves, and the opening of the new City store proves that our appetite for classic tailoring is stronger than ever. Long may that continue.

oliverbrown.org.uk