WORDS
Ella Kirby
Chelsea is at the heart of Oliver Brown. The playground of the well-to-do and quintessentially British, the London borough is well versed with fine suiting, bespoke fits and even a top hat or two. But where does the English gent weekend? And, more importantly, what does he wear? For the Oliver Brown autumn/winter 2024 collection – aptly named Out of Town – Oliver Brown is taking us on a welcome trip to the rolling hills and verdant meadows of the Great British countryside, where black cabs become Land Rovers, and martinis in private members’ clubs are swapped for cloudy pints in village locals.
This is quite the plane trip away from last season’s Italian inspirations, in which founder Kristian Ferner Robson looked to lazy Venetian summers to evoke welcome escapism from the cloud-filled skies of home. Yet bringing things back closer to Blighty puts a lens on the brand’s tailoring roots, reflecting the rural life and penchant for field sports of the man who wears it.
Here, each piece does practicality in enviable style, seen no more so than in its outerwear selection. Our unwavering gaze is set on the label’s classic Covert coat (a favourite from autumn/winter 2023), which returns in a melange olive hue with a contrasting velvet collar and classic waxed finish. Elsewhere, Oliver Brown spotlights traditional craftsmanship via fabric sourced from the finest British and European mills, including signature corduroy from Lancashire’s Brisbane Moss, and Leichtfried cloth for the new waterproof field coat.
In Oliver Brown autumn/winter 2024, tailoring also doffs its (tweed) cap to heritage with windowpane checks and archival weaves used across suit separates. Ferner Robson says, ‘A standout piece for me is the Eaton jacket, woven in England by Lovat Mill. It features a subtle herringbone pattern with colours inspired by the beauty of the Scottish Highlands. It’s a beautifully adaptable piece with endless possibilities for styling.’ Detailed with touches of lavender to evoke wild meadow blooms, the entire collection’s colour palette is a vision of tranquillity: earthy browns, deep blues and sage greens.
Comfort is the order of the day, and knits of sky blue and bottle green in lambswool and cashmere blends add warmth and practicality throughout the season. But a fusty cliché of gun-toting and flat cap-wearing this is not. In signature Oliver Brown fashion, modernity is imbued throughout the collection, with new cuts, athletic detailing and relaxed, unstructured styles bringing a wholly fresh air.