WORDS
Imogen Almond
British tailoring has always been at the forefront of sartorial excellence. With London tailors having led the menswear charge for centuries, Britain is the birthplace of many iconic staples, such as the classic bowler hat and the long- established blazer. Now, the traditional excellence that comes with expert tailoring is enjoying a renaissance, with many discerning men looking to replicate the tradition through luxurious modern pieces.
Founded almost three decades ago, Oliver Brown quickly made an impact on London’s already vibrant menswear scene with its exquisite traditional and contemporary pieces. Renowned for its classic, quality British designs, the brand upholds the high standards of London tailoring with debonair bespoke, country and formal attire that attracts everyone from society’s elite to Hollywood royalty.
In honour of the history of British tailoring and Oliver Brown’s impact on the industry, the London outfitters has released its Evening Wear Anniversary Collection – a celebration of 25 years of style and excellence.
‘As we celebrate our 25th anniversary, I am filled with immense pride for how far Oliver Brown has come,’ says Kristian Robson, owner of Oliver Brown. ‘From our beginnings in Chelsea to expanding our presence on Jermyn Street, our journey has been one of dedication and a commitment to timeless style. We’ve always believed in designing pieces that stand the test of time, crafted to last longer and be loved forever, and we remain dedicated to that ethos as we embark on the next 25 years.’
Dinner suits are the focal point of Oliver Brown’s new collection, specifically the Carlyle dinner suit, which is the true antithesis of flash-in-the-pan consumerism, with its peak lapels and fitted cut embodying a timeless aesthetic. As Oliver Brown loyalists will know, this suit is a long-standing favourite of the brand. However, with a desire to capture the spirit of the anniversary celebration, Oliver Brown has reimagined the suit for the new collection, crafting it from Loro Piana Australis super 150’S wool, a fibre of exceptional finesse and versatility, and silk for the lapels.
The Carlyle velvet jacket is also imbued with an unmistakable air of jubilation. Oozing stylish elegance, the jacket comes in a Scabal velvet designed in a range of rich jewel hues, such as wine, teal, raspberry and sumptuous royal blue, elevating the timeless style and putting the brand on a par with Savile Row’s finest.
But perhaps the pieces from the line that best exemplify Oliver Brown’s enduring legacy of classic tailoring are its made-to-measure and bespoke suits.
Reminiscent of Humphrey Bogart’s classic tailoring in the 1942 film Casablanca, the made-to-measure dinner suit exudes Hollywood glamour, proving that the finest formalwear never goes out of style. Artfully cut from Dugdale’s new fine worsted off-white Panama weave cloth, the refined double-breasted jacket features a peak lapel and turnback cuffs, with the Milanese buttonhole adding a further touch of sophistication.
A rite of passage for some, and a one-off luxury for others, the bespoke process takes a gentleman’s wardrobe to the next level. The bespoke suit for the anniversary collection is hand-crafted by Oliver Brown tailors in 15oz black barathea from Smith Woollens to fit the customer faultlessly. To add a contemporary flair, the suit has been subtly modernised with the jacket showcasing a black velvet facing in lieu of traditional satin silk.
Oliver Brown’s effortlessly debonair, eminently covetable Evening Wear Anniversary Collection has arrived just in time for party season, so button up in your finest and we’ll see you at the bar – no RSVP required.
The Evening Wear Anniversary Collection launched in October 2023 online and in-store; oliverbrown.org.uk