‘Perfect craftsmanship imbues a shoe with a valuable uniqueness which is instrumental in turning it into a finely fashioned objet d’art,’ says Manolo Blahnik, the Spanish designer who has devoted his life to the art of shoemaking since opening his first shop in Chelsea in the early ’70s. Quite surprisingly, it all happened because of an unexpected turn of events. After studying law and languages in Geneva and art in Paris, Blahnik began a career as a stage-set designer.

However, a meeting in New York with the legendary Diana Vreeland, editor-in-chief at American Vogue, changed his destiny. Under her advice, the young Blahnik discovered his vocation for footwear. He immersed himself in the best Italian manufacturing studios, learning the craft from machine operators, pattern cutters and technicians. ‘I took a hands-on approach and learned from the best shoemakers in Italian factories. To this day, working in the factories is still my favourite part of the job,’ says Blahnik, who, in 2019, acquired Re Marcello, the factory that has made the brand’s footwear for over 35 years.

Based in Vigevano (PV), about 28 miles from Milan, among the Italian districts of excellence in shoe manufacturing, the atelier and production facility employ 77 highly skilled craftsmen who have translated Blahnik’s signature sketches into unique masterpieces since the early ’90s. ‘Craftsmanship is in their blood, passed down over generations,’ says Blahnik. ‘The team there knows exactly what I am thinking and strives to bring all my creations to life, even the most intricate and embellished designs, always pushing boundaries to ensure complete perfection.’

The Canary Island-born designer has never kept secret his deep fascination with Italy. He was only 11 when he first came across Senso, a melodrama directed by Luchino Visconti, whose costumes, music and photography left a mark on his heart. ‘The Italians are extremely conscious of beauty, sensuality and the joy of life,’ he says.

Opening the doors of its factory, the luxury brand unveiled “The Craft” in 2023, a digital space used to explore bespoke shoemaking and the outstanding expertise of skilful artisans, or ‘magicians’ as Kristina Blahnik, Manolo’s niece and CEO of the family firm, loves to call them. ‘You can have an amazing drawing, but it is the artisans that make the shoe come to life,’ she explains. ‘I am so thrilled that we have been able to bring their work and their skill to life in The Craft room and educate people along the way,’ she adds. The virtual platform offers a behind-the- scenes look at the making of products that have become true icons in pop culture, from the design process to construction, encompassing materials, embellishments and signature techniques. Broguing, for instance, is a staple in Blahnik’s array of artisanal details. It consists of punching out small pieces of leather in various sizes, combined with pinked trims to create ornamental patterns. Inspired by the abundance of ribbons in the portraits of the 18th and 19th centuries, knotting is a recurring technique used for creating dramatic shapes, macramé and tatting details. Take the Smyrna, Pelagalo or Lollo models from the Summer 24 collection, where the bows are structural design features rather than pure embellishments.

With a nod to modernist architecture, the new collection shows incredible examples of latticework created by crossing strips of material to form a trellis pattern. This device is one of the designer’s favourites: ‘I always love latticework; it reminds me of everything I adore – the slatted windows in Spain, the gates and ironwork of my favourite gardens. It offers a sense of security, like a guard enclosing the foot.’

manoloblahnik.com