Words
Josh Sims
Collaborations are nothing new in the world of fashion. And merchandising spin-offs from the world of movies are nothing new either. But linking a movie with a retailer to create a co-branded clothing line – that’s a fresh idea. Or at least it was two years ago, when online clothes emporium Mr Porter and Kingsman – the Matthew Vaughn-directed spy movie – got together to launch a menswear collection.
Indeed, such was its success – Mr Porter sold over 1,000 suits off the back of it, and selling suits online is no easy task – that several more seasonal collections inspired by the film followed. But now, with the release of the sequel Kingsman: The Golden Circle this September, comes the second collection to take its inspiration directly from the on-screen style.
Co-designed with Arianne Phillips, the film’s costume designer, that means the collection is very English gent. It’s also a compendium of pieces from some of the best, and most English, of makers around: Macintosh raincoats, Turnbull & Asser shirts, George Cleverly shoes. But since this time the film’s storyline also has a strong American element, that’s given licence to include more casual garb from the likes of Jeans Shop, Champion and Golden Bear too. No quick cash in this, some of the collection’s top-end pieces are priced at around £2,500.
The latest Kingsman collection features sharp tailoring in heritage fabrics and curated pieces from classic British brands
‘The collection is very much what you see in the film,’ explains Fiona Firth, Mr Porter’s buying director. ‘So everything from an orange smoking jacket to cowboy boots, shearling to denim. But the star is still that very English, very Kingsman look – a double-breasted Prince of Wales check suit under a cashmere overcoat.’
The films, in one of many sly nods to James Bond, certainly over-emphasise the role of clothing – the spy chief, played by Colin Firth, is something of a deadly dandy, and the agency’s headquarters are based under Huntsman, the Savile Row tailor.
That clothes were such an important element to the first movie’s proposal was reassuring to Mr Porter, since a tie-in with what was then an unknown quantity was certainly a gamble. ‘Of course there was an element of risk to it – going from costume to collection hadn’t been done before,’ says Fiona. ‘But Matthew Vaughn’s identity for the film was so strong we could at least understand straight away what might be possible.’
But does any man still want to buy the clothing seen on the stars? Films have long been a reservoir for style cues: be that Cary Grant’s tailoring in North By North West, or Steve McQueen’s khakis in The Great Escape. ‘And while I think the movies were probably much more significant to the way men dressed in the past, they still have an influence today,’ argues Fiona. ‘Men are more comfortable with selecting what they wear and there are more influences on that than film and actors now too. But people still talk about “how stylish” a film is. Film is still part of the mix.’
Kingsman: The Golden Circle is on nationwide distribution now; mrporter.com