Let’s get one thing out of the way: Monaco is a strange place. I don’t mean that in a disparaging way; it just is. The world’s second-smallest sovereign state (only Vatican City is more bijou) is sandwiched between Nice in France and the Italian border on a densely packed cluster of hills. Of countries possessing a coastline, it has the world’s shortest at 5.6km and the principality itself is just a little over 2sq km. Yet it is one of the wealthiest nations in the world with its own constitutional monarchy. 

The cliché of Monaco is wall-to-wall designer stores, supercars, supersized yachts and teacup Chihuahuas. Well, yes, it is these things, but it is also so much more. For one thing it is absolutely stunning. Towering apartment blocks of varying sizes and architectural appeal line the hilly terrain, all clamouring for views across that tiny stretch of the French Riviera overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. The views are spectacular, whatever your vantagepoint, and the roads, lawns and pavements are as immaculate as the Balenciaga-clad residents. The central area of Monte-Carlo is the glittering heart of Monaco, where you’ll find the ravishing Belle Époque-style Hôtel de Paris and Casino de Monte-Carlo, which dates back to 1861 when it was officially opened by Prince Charles III of Monaco. And this should be your first port of call in a whistle-stop tour of the city…  

FEEL LIKE 007 IN THE CASINO DE MONTE-CARLO 

Even if gambling is not your bag, a visit to the world-famous Casino de Monte-Carlo is an absolute must, if only to take in its magnificent opulence or enjoy a spot of lunch in Le Salon Rose. The Casino is what put Monaco on the map and the reason for its tax haven status. It also set the blueprint for other casinos worldwide, though none quite compare. Seasoned gamblers or those who fancy a flutter can try their luck on classic games such as roulette, blackjack and Texas hold ’em. Or you could even sink a meagre €5 note into a slot machine and cross your fingers. If gambling is not on the cards (pun intended), then simply walk around the cavernous casino to marvel at its resplendent Baroque interiors. The casino is open to the public every day (but make sure to wear a suit in the evening) and is also home to a ballet and opera venue. There are plenty of cultural hidden gems within its lavish walls. For one, it is the only casino in the world with a clock, which came about in the early 1900s when visitors would have to take the last train home; it being the only mode of transport to and from the principality. Today, the elegant Train Bleu restaurant pays homage to this slice of history. And in the ornate ceiling inside the central gambling hall, you’ll find oval-shaped windows, which were originally “spy holes” that enabled security to keep an eye out for cheaters. 

GO BIG ON BRUNCH IN BLUE BAY

When in Monaco, you’re never short of fine dining options. Six restaurants in the principality share an impressive nine Michelin stars between them, and there’s an abundance of different cuisines and cooking styles to sample. But one option to try if you fancy something a little different (and have plenty of time on your hands) is the popular Champagne Sunday Brunch at the Michelin-starred Blue Bay restaurant at the Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort. Forget everything you think you know about brunch. This is Dubai-by-way-of-Las Vegas levels of extravagance and choice. The buffet-style experience was devised by two-Michelin-starred chef Marcel Ravin, whose Caribbean upbringing inspires his inventive dishes. Arrive with an empty stomach and explore the extraordinary diversity and variety of food available: from hot plates and delicate pastries to fresh seafood and salads. Available from 12.30pm to 3pm every Sunday, it’s a decadent treat to wind down your weekend.  

MEANDER THROUGH THE OLD TOWN

While it may not be exactly a hidden gem, Monaco’s Old Town is still somewhat unexpected (and is also a great way to walk off a lavish brunch). Away from the flashy cars and yachts of Monte-Carlo, the Old Town operates at a slower pace and involves a steep walk up the Rampe de la Major to reach its summit (known as the Rock). Here, you’ll find the surprisingly unflashy Prince’s Palace of Monaco (which is open to the public in the summer), where you can watch the Changing of the Guard. Across the way, you’ll find the Saint Nicholas Cathedral of Monaco, the final resting place of Prince Rainier and Grace Kelly, where the couple also wed, and there are plenty of winding streets with charming souvenir shops and eateries. Nearby, there’s a cute daily market, Le Marché de la Condamine, which originally opened in 1880 and offers fresh produce, fruit, veg and flowers.  

PEOPLE-WATCH IN LE BAR AMÉRICAIN

Just as you don’t need to be a seasoned gambler to visit the Casino de Monte-Carlo, you needn’t be a big-time drinker to enjoy the pleasures of Le Bar Américain. This famous hotel lounge exudes a Roaring Twenties glamour. Think plush red interiors, rich wood furniture and dimmed lighting. There’s also regular live jazz and music performances. Arriving at the entrance of the Hôtel de Paris – the grande dame of the Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer hotels – you’ll be greeted by a huge reception with sweeping chandeliers. Le Bar Américain spills out into this communal area, but make sure to grab a seat inside and soak up the atmosphere over an (admittedly eye-wateringly expensive) cocktail as you watch the well-heeled crowd; an eclectic mix of locals and travellers, and maybe a celeb or two. A selection of bar snacks will be served post haste by the attentive staff. Make sure you try Barbagiuan, a simple yet delicious spinach and cheese pastry that is a national delicacy. 

RAISE A TOAST IN THE WORLD’S LARGEST HOTEL WINE CELLAR

Hidden beneath the glitz and glamour of the Hôtel de Paris is a dark labyrinthine wine cellar. In fact, this is the world’s largest hotel wine cellar, home to around 350,000 bottles and dating back to 1874, when founder François Blanc’s enterprising wife, Marie, personally financed its undertaking. A dusty museum, hidden under lock and key in the corner of the cellar, is named in her honour and houses the hotel’s rarest bottles. Some 50 per cent of the wine hails from the Bordeaux region, but you’ll find wines and champagnes from all corners of the world. The bottles plenish the 30-plus bars and restaurants under the Société des Bains umbrella. But “Les Caves” is also available to hire for a private dinner or wine tasting session with the head sommelier. Princess Grace was known to host events here, and even held her 20th wedding anniversary celebrations within its historic walls. 

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Photography ©MONTE-CARLO Société des Bains de Mer