The background

One of four Sam’s outposts (there’s also Sam’s Riverside in Hammersmith and Sam’s Kitchen in Hammersmith and Chiswick, each one offering a unique USP) Sam’s Waterside is an elegant and exciting addition to the recently developed Brentford Waterside area of west London. This is a beautiful site overlooking the canal, which was home to a pop-up outdoor Everyman Cinema last summer, and sitting under a chic Ballymore development of very cool apartments. Sitting very close to its sister extension Sam’s Larder (a deli and food store selling coffees and pastries alongside a selection of produce from Sam’s favourite artisans), Sam’s Waterside adds to what has fast become a must-visit west London stalwart. I mean, have you even been to west London if you haven’t eaten at a Sam’s? I think not…

The space

Deliberate or not, Sam’s venues have a knack for looking incredibly appealing from afar. Like viewing the ideal cosy scene through a window from a hostile, snowy street, it gives you that “I have to go in” feeling. Once inside, you’ll realise you made the right choice. This homey corner neighbourhood bistro transforms into a vast, beautifully designed contemporary space that will instantly have you making mental notes for your living room at home. And the key here is details.

The uplit central bar dominates the space, its burnt-umber velvet bar stools are so cool and comfortable, sitting at the counter for your dinner suddenly doesn’t feel like a downgrade. Deep teal and light biscuit banquettes line the edges of the restaurant, overlooked by large abstract artworks. On two sides, floor-to-ceiling windows allow natural light to flood in during the day. While, at night, the twinkling lights outside and waterside reflections ricochet into the space, fulfilling the aforementioned promise of a comfy snug.

An open kitchen looks out onto the main area of the restaurant. A good table will give you a view of the canal on one side, and a glimpse into the kitchen where you might just spot the inimitable head chef Abbie Hendren sautéing a scallop or two.

The food

Moreish, sumptuous, buttery, steaming, melt-in-the-mouth: all ways to describe our meal at Sam’s. Its extensive menu makes it hard to narrow it down to one dish but when you do, it’s guaranteed to exude optimal flavour.

We ordered from the à la carte menu (there’s also a local set menu and a delicious weekend brunch menu) and opted for a selection of starters to share. Artfully presented crispy potatoes with aioli and chilli jam were as delectable as they were pretty, the trout tartare with black rice offered a welcome tang and the BBQ aubergine toast with piquillo and smoked almonds rendered us unable to eat aubergine any other way again.

A hard act to follow, but our Hereford aged rump with triple-cooked chips and buttery, steaming potato and leek pie with buttered peas (you can never have too much butter) certainly delivered. The conversation, which would usually be in full flow, was halted as we savoured every forkful.

Overordering on starters and the richness of our mains left little room for dessert but –teased by a marmalade sponge pudding at the neighbouring table – we decided to share a chocolate and salted caramel tart with honeycomb. Lucky we are local; we can come back whenever we want, and we have the option to walk off the indulgence en route home.

The bill

A three-course meal for two with wine or cocktails will set you back around £160.

The verdict

The proof of Sam’s Waterside’s excellence is not just in the proverbial pudding, it is in the detail. The team has considered everything here, from the menu and drinks right down to the carefully curated decor, plants and positioning (heck, even the loos are a delight). If you’re in west London, add it to your schedule and, if you’re not, make a plan to head there, because this is one plate of food plus mouthwatering cocktail and neighbourhood vibe you do not want to miss. Sam’s Waterside, 3 Kingham Avenue, Brentford TW8 8GB; samswaterside.co.uk