Under current CEO Georges Kern, Breitling has opted for a “go big, or go home” approach to its launches. Other brands might eke out their new releases, but Breitling has chosen to hit watch lovers with a double bill; a revamped Premier collection – with accompanying book on this iconic design’s history – and a fabulous addition to its Top Time car collaborations.

First the Premier, which was dreamed up in 1943 by then-president Willy Breitling. He wanted to design a post-war watch, one that wasn’t utilitarian but sophisticated, elegant, and made with the best materials, finishings and calibers. The name “Premier” was chosen to reflect that. As a collection, it was everything Willy wanted it to be, yet history wasn’t kind to it, and it was soon eclipsed by the likes of the Chronomat and the Navitimer.

Fast forward to 2018 when, just a year into his new role, Kern decided to resurrect arguably the most un-Breitling Breitling ever. It was a bold move but one that proved the brand could do more than make muscular pilot watches. After a 2021 revamp, the collection returns with five gorgeous dial colours and Breitling’s in-house movement. In keeping with the original 1943 Premier, this collection is all chronographs. The cases are now 42mm – the original being a very diminutive, by today’s standards, 35mm – but it’s not just the size that’s new.

‘We are committed to preserving Willy Breitling’s vision of combining the precision of a professional tool watch with the sophistication of a modern dress watch,’ says Kern. ‘The Premier embodied the hopeful energy that emerged in the post-war era, and we are proud to continue that tradition with a modern-retro version for our times.’ This means applied Arabic numerals, streamlined pushers, and lovely vintage syringe-style hands. However, the one thing that is very 21^st century is the Breitling B01 that powers it.

Launched in 2009, it was the brand’s first in-house chronograph. It has recently been redesigned with a slimmer profile as a result of a more compact oscillating weight, which gives the Premier its svelte case that can slip discreetly under a cuff. This revamp also comes in five new dial colours – blue, green, black, cream and, the standout, salmon. There’s also the option of a leather strap in black, gold-brown or brown alligator, or the sportier steel. And for those who really want to go full premier class, there is a version in 18-ct red gold. And – should you want to have some dinner party conversation-worthy facts to go with your new purchase, there’s now a book on the Premier written by Fred Mandelbaum, Breitling’s official historian.

Another treat, and another canny Kern resurrection from the Breitling back catalogue, is the Top Time line. First unveiled in 1964, its youthful design was an attempt to capture the radical spirit of the age. 2020 saw a collector-baiting limited edition, available online only, with a striking Zorro dial and up-to-the-minute blockchain certification. Since then, Top Time has become associated with the best brands on wheels. It has collaborated with Australian lifestyle and biking brand Deus Ex Machina, motorcycle manufacturer Triumph, and Ford, with which it has created watches inspired by its classic cars – the Mustang, Shelby Cobra, and now the Thunderbird. As you’d expect from a timepiece inspired by the original cruiser, this is a louche, laidback watch. The red leather perforated strap is reminiscent of car seats and driving gloves, while the contrasting white dial allows the Thunderbird logo to pop. Under the bonnet of this slice of 1960s cool is the B01 again. With its 70-hour power reserve and five-year warranty, it makes this watch the ideal companion for the open road, where, to paraphrase Kerouac, nothing is behind you, everything is ahead.

Premier B01 from £7,200, Top Time Classic Cars from £6,250; breitling.com