It was 1954 when the French Ministry of Defence released a specification for a purpose-built chronograph, known as Type 20, designed for use in flight by its naval and air forces.

Inspired in part by the German Hanhart chronograph, a historic model which served as the first pilot’s chronograph for the German armed forces, the specifications for this multipurpose wristwatch included a flyback function used for dead reckoning. The watches should also measure 38mm, feature bidirectional rotating bezels and black dials with large, luminescent numerals and hands, and their movements should have a power reserve of at least 35 hours, and not lose nor gain more than eight seconds per day.

Several watch companies answered the request, supplying their own Type 20 chronographs, including Airain, Seliva, Chronofixe, Dodane, Auricoste, Vixa and Mathey-Tissot, but it was the Swiss manufacture Breguet that designed a model that was soon approved by the authorities – a surprise, as the storied brand, founded in 1775 in Paris, had never made a military watch.

Breguet’s Type 20 watches were then delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959, to the Flight Test Centre from 1956 to 1957, and the Naval Air Force in 1960 as part of pilot’s equipment, while remaining the property of the French state, which ensured they were kept in good working order until they were unfit for service. In the wake of such high demand, Breguet also produced a civilian version named the Type XX, which would soon become one of the maison’s most iconic and collectable models.

The Type XX chronograph has evolved through three successive generations. Now in its fourth generation, this year brings a new Type XX, highlighted by a gold bezel with a bi-directional ring made of blue ceramic – a material used for the first time in Breguet collections.

The new Type XX Chronograph 2067 draws inspiration from some of the earliest models in Breguet’s collection, most notably the number 1780, a small series of three gold timepieces – called either Type 20 (military version) or Type XX (civilian version) – which now belong to the Breguet Museum. The bezel, meanwhile, first appeared on the second generation of the Type XX, dating from the 1970s, which were decorated with different graduations such as tachymeter scales, or with GMT indications.

Breguet has merged these historical nods with the signatures of the Type XX, such as the 15-minute counter located at 3 o’clock, the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock and the running seconds at 9 o’clock. As included in the military version, a date window is positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, while the 2067’s 42mm rose-gold case is fitted with a fluted bi-directional graduated bezel.

Completing the model, an alligator strap can be swapped for a version in soft, woven midnight-blue nylon, accented with white piping, while the Type XX itself is delivered in a Havana-hued leather box reminiscent of an aircraft wing.

£35,500; breguet.com